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Routes in Pinnacle Peak

28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Chug A Lug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ezy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line A2
Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Walk Up T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brad Smith, Eric Johnson '81
Page Views: 1,991 total, 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Door jamb edges up a gently overhanging face until finally a rest is encountered. Climb starts same as Powder Puff, then branches off right and up face. Excellent TR if not ready for the lead (I spent many a shady late summer afternoons messing around on this)

Location

Start same as Powder Puff. Continue to summit and rap, or downclimb from sub summit on south crack (5.3) or beer route (5th class, above 1st pitch Chug A Lug- best access for TR and normally shaded)

Protection

stoppers and 4 bolts.

Photos

Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
 
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
 
Eric and I had a vision for this route long before rap-bolting was practiced in North America. The distance between protection points was due to our own uncertainties about rap-bolting. We thought if we were going to place bolts on rappel, and not on hooks as was common then, we had better leave lots of space between them.

One early guidebook entry describes our ascent as a “siege.” I would hardly call what we did as a siege. After bolting the route, Eric tried the first attempt. Remember, this was before people spoke in terms like “on-sight” and “red-point.” We had rappelled only to inspect the line, clean the loose flakes, and determine the best places for the bolts. Neither of us rehearsed any of the moves. Eric placed the pieces in the crack, moved onto the face and had just reached the bolt where the angle of the rock relaxes toward vertical. At that point he faintly uttered “I can’t hang on …” and came hurling off the route to stop, hanging upside down, at eye-level with me. The fact that the belay is off a raised portion of the rock higher than the ground and that the face is slightly overhung, means that a fall, while potentially a bit long, is all air.

Eric considered his effort finished and I went on to lead the climb without pulling the rope from the pieces placed in the crack. I remember reaching the first bolt and being unable to press the gate of the carabineer open in order to clip in. That was my first experience with serious forearm pump. I had to press myself against the rock and shake my arm until I could get the gate open. I don’t miss those Chouinard “D’s”! Apr 22, 2010