Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mish, Black '78, direct finish Waugh, LB '79
Page Views: 1,744 total · 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

climb the corner until possible to step left to first bolt. Thin face moves past the remaining bolts leads straight to east sub summit area (tie off boulder, nuts in cracks, or now bolts??). Ratings have varied from 5.10-5.11a. If comfy on JT granite face (or Phx granite) it falls in the 10+ arena.

Location

start in right facing corner system next to Fear of Flying start. Climb to summit and rap or down climb south crack or beer route (toward chug a lug).

Protection

stoppers, 5 bolts

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
a fun climb, with great thin footwork and delicate sequences.

ends in a monstrous two glue-in eye-bolt anchor. there's also another glue-in eye-bolt about five feet above the anchor. i'm not sure of its purpose...maybe a piece of protection for the mini-pitch to the summit?? Jan 1, 2010
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10+
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10+
Really, really fun route! Crux seemed to be down low, but plenty of solid moves after.

2 glue ins on the top are for a more comfy belay if bringing your partner up. The larger ones on the edge are for the rap. Can rap straight to ground with a 70m (long, tie knots!) by heading straight back over the pitch 1 belay. If you have a 60m you will still hit the P1 anchors. Dec 4, 2016
Another fine face climb adventure on the Peak. I thought there were three cruxes in route to the summit that makes you pinch, crimp, and edge like you mean it. Feels like a true 5.11 to me. Jan 7, 2018