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Routes in Pinnacle Peak

28th Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angels On My Mind S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Woolsey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BeeGee T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beelzebub T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Party T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brown Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
Chug A Lug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chutes and Ladders T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Death Watch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Throat T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dried Oatmeal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeons and Dragons (AKA Burnt Toast) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Ezy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Crying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line A2
Flight 5.11 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight 5.11 Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Garber's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Give Me an Idea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hades T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Standing Around S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Discipline T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Nuts T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Name It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parallax View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pecker Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peg Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rossetti Rose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shalaylay Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silhouette S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spiral Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tongue of Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown T,TR A3 R
Unknown, left of Palo Verde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vanishing Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voluptuous Ham(ster) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Walk Up T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Dana Hollister. Chuck Parker. Pete Noebels, 1974
Page Views: 4,643 total · 30/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Birthday Party is a nice mixed face and crack line that will challenge the 5.7 leader nicely. While the route had been climbed literally hundreds of times without incident prior to 1994, two bolts were added to the starting moves before Pinnacle Peak Park opened to protect modern gym climbers.

Start in a shallow right-facing corner at the end of the wall. Some thin face moves lead up past the two low bolts to better holds. Continue up, placing nuts to reach the obvious roof crack above. Jam the overhanging roof crack to easier vertical ground and continue to the top. Belay is set by downclimbing off the back and using cracks in the ledge behind.

Location

The route is found on the "Upper East Wall" section of Pinnacle Peak, about 150 feet left of the chimney that marks the start of the South Crack route.

Protection

Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #3 Camalot size.
Brandon Bogardus
Scottsdale, AZ
Brandon Bogardus   Scottsdale, AZ
Skip the bolts. Cheers for old-school 5.7!!!
If you want, you can bring some gear and set up a top rope. No shame in that. Feb 3, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.8
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.8
The initial slab moves were pretty thin, and that roof is pretty physical for 5.7. Fun route. Feb 6, 2007
Debbie Vischer
Loveland
  5.8+
Debbie Vischer   Loveland
  5.8+
Glad to have had the first bolt as there is no place for protection until you are 20+ feet off the ground. Pulling roof was fun... tape not a bad idea as rock is super abbrasive here. Feb 15, 2009
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.8
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.8
2nd bolt to crack is runout. The roof is much easier as a standard hand jam roof than a lie back, makes it much closer to the grade than otherwise...

Build your own anchor on top. A great first pitch to the top of pinnacle peak (2nd pitch South Crack) Oct 16, 2011
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
Great day for a GREAT CLIMB!

The jams on this one were good...Drop it, turn it and pull.
Good Stuff! Jan 3, 2012
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
One of the best climbs at Pinnacle Peak for sure. Nov 9, 2012
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.8-
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.8-
Old school Pinnacle Peak 5.7 for 8-10 feet at slight overhung hand crack. Mar 3, 2013
Perfect hands in the roof section and above!!! This route is awesome. I wish the roof went out horizontally for another couple of feet to be honest. Jugs can help you pull the roof. If you are confident jamming then it will be 5.7ish. If not then it will feel harder. Rack suggestion: doubles BD 0.5-3.0. If you bring a #4 then there are placement options below the roof and up higher. However, the rack suggestion is fine. I didn't bring anything larger than a #3. Nov 7, 2015
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
  5.7+
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
  5.7+
Fun Route. tape probably a good idea i cheese graded my hand on one of the jams under the roof. protects well with a small rack. took a #3, #2 and two #1's once you get over the roof its done. Dec 31, 2015
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.7 PG13
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.7 PG13
One of my favorite cracks at pinnacle. Solid hand jams up the whole crack. For gear, you only need singles up to 3. I used a 4, but it wasn't necessary.. Jan 19, 2016
Zachary Loman
Phoenix, AZ
 
Zachary Loman   Phoenix, AZ
 
5.7 is appropriate for everything except the crux which feels more like a committing 5.9ish. I guess it averages out to a 5.7+ Couldn't find a place for a nut on the left-sloping part, but a C4 0.3 fits nicely about halfway up that thin seam. Apr 26, 2018
Greg Imlach
  5.6
Greg Imlach  
  5.6
Not sure about the hype on this rout....The beginning move was the funnest part of the climb and the roof was 5.6 making it oddly easy for any rating above that. Mickey Mantle and it's Alt. start are both much more gratifying and technical problems. May 5, 2018

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