Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed George, Bill McMorris 1947
Page Views: 8,659 total · 63/month
Shared By: Pete Hickman on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

First pitch: Left chimney 4th class scramble to belay bolts just below the sundeck boulder. It's easier than it might look at first sight. Second pitch: Go around a triangluar boulder and up another boulder to access a large crack. Follow wide crack to small chimney with a bolt on left face with which you can pass a sort of bulge and climb up to a large ledge/tunnell area with two belay bolts. If you stop here then this can be done in three pitches, or you can continue up the chimney area with plenty of protection placements to another ledge area, move left and up a sort of ramp to the summit. Here you will find three huge rappell anchors as well as 4 or 5 bolts and hangars.

Location

The start is obvious at the top of the trail to the pinacle. However, Weekend Rock topo shows the line going up the right chimney on the first pitch but that looks much harder and all the other topos I had showed it going up the left side which turned out to be pretty easy.

Protection

1 bolt besides the three sets of belay bolts. Many places for large nuts, I only had a #.75 and #1 Cam and I think I used both but probably didn't have too. A couple of slings around outcroppings on the second pitch. The first pitch (4th class) we used no protection.
Nick Irvine
Flagstaff
  5.5
Nick Irvine   Flagstaff
  5.5
I know it's not the hardest thing to grunt through, but shouldn't this line get a little more respect than 5.3? The two roofs on the second pitch are definitely strong climbing moves. Nov 3, 2007
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
  5.3
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
  5.3
I think that compared to other climbs at Pinacle Peak 5.3 is fair. When I first came to PP I thought everything was much harder than rated but that was because I had never climbed on granite before. Dec 6, 2007
Debbie Vischer
Loveland
  5.6
Debbie Vischer   Loveland
  5.6
5.3?!?! My you know what!! Ratings are definitely sandbag'd in AZ. Tight off-width/chimney. Last chimney a bit tricky for a new climber - need solid stemming technique. Secure but strenuous. View worth the effort. Rap'd with single 60m rope (needed very last inch to make it to the bottom). Feb 15, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
great line for top-rope soloists or free soloists. from the top, you get spectacular views (good for either type of soloist) and access to the anchors for powder puff and other climbs (good for top-rope soloists). Jan 1, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
It's a pretty fun climb, and a great one to introduce climbers to multipitch. As Randy says, it's also a great scramble to the top. Jan 12, 2011
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.3
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.3
I think it should be noted that a 70M WILL get you from the summit anchors(east-most top-two/biggest eyebolts) to the top of the 4th class gully anchors, down the south face. So you don't need to hassle with the mid-way rap. However, it was a bit tight with maybe 3' on each end remaining.

-Mac Aug 21, 2012
NC Rock Climber
The Oven, AKA Phoenix
NC Rock Climber   The Oven, AKA Phoenix
This climb is a blast. Fun, diverse climbing with great pro leads to an amazing summit. HOWEVER, 5.3?!?! Seriously?!?! IMHO, that is a giant sandbag. I am not going to suggest another rating, but it didn't seem like 5.3 to me. Oct 12, 2013
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
Great route for pinnacle. Definitely is a sandbagged 5.3, but still quite easy. Nov 9, 2015
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.3 PG13
here is a video of the climb my partner that followed me up took of us climbing south crack
youtube.com/watch?v=XRXoD0G… Dec 3, 2015
TravKlein
Tempe, AZ
  5.3
TravKlein   Tempe, AZ
  5.3
The first 'pitch' is a 4th class scramble between two boulders. I would suggest combining the 2nd and 3rd. 5.3 is fair for the area. Rap off the north east side of the peak down next to chug a lug to avoid climbers coming up behind you on the route. Need a 70m rope with a few feet to spare. Jan 25, 2016
Meech
Phoenix, AZ
Meech   Phoenix, AZ
Climbed this recently and one of the large chockstones (the largest of them all) on the P1 chimney shifted down a couple feet when I stepped on it. That thing is gonna take a tumble one of these days, and I don't want to be the one underneath it when it does, so just be careful :) Jan 5, 2017
Forever Outside
Los Angeles, CA
  5.7+
Forever Outside   Los Angeles, CA
  5.7+
Never climb this with a backpack, EVER. Also mega sandbaggery going on here, be advised. Mar 18, 2017
CTB
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.3
CTB   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.3
You only need to dangle your bag in a couple places. You can even just reach up and clip your bag to the first bolt on P2, then grab it once you are above it. Also there is no sandbaggery going on. Ive even led this thing in moonboot Globe skate shoes In the afternoon in July. Its only 5.3 Mar 23, 2017
Went up this route this morning, and there was a huge nest mid way through. We didn't actually see a bird so we didn't let the rangers know. Please keep your eyes out if you decide to go up! If you find out it's active it might be worth letting the rangers know, better the crag gets shut down than someone gets hurt Jun 17, 2017
Travis Gomez
Sedro Woolley, WA
 
Travis Gomez   Sedro Woolley, WA
 
A 5.3 testpiece. Jun 28, 2017
Bob Pettit
cave creek
  5.3
Bob Pettit   cave creek
  5.3
There's been some recent Rockfall on the first pitch of South crack a large Chalkstone that rested about 25 feet up the chimney shifted Forward and broke in half. I cleaned up some of the loose blocks but be very careful until this is cleaned up. Oct 27, 2017
Bob Pettit
cave creek
  5.3
Bob Pettit   cave creek
  5.3
A few weeks ago there was some bees on the first fourth class pitch I had to go around to the Southside 4th class to avoid Oct 14, 2018 · Temporary Report