Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 494 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Jan 4, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent, steep route that climbs differently than most of the vertical to less than vertical granite at Pinnacle Peak.

Start by stemming and laybacking up a sweet dihedral with small gear for about 40'. When the crack peters out, move right onto the face past a bolt to a rest stance. From here, it's full value. Layback up the overhanging seam past 2 bolts to a thank-God lip. Bust the final mantle and cruise around the right to finish up at the west summit anchors.

Location

On the north side of the West Summit. You can rap or scramble down to the base from the notch between the west and east summits.

Basically from the rap anchors at the gully right of Chug A Lug-- head north under some boulders. RR will be the obvious dihedral splitter below.

Protection

Tiny nuts and cams to about .5. 3 bolts for the finish.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.12a
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.12a
TR'd this the other day. Awesome line! Definitely steeper than many of the routes here and super fun movement!

Spent lots of time cleaning off the loose flakes in the lower section. Gear is small here, but the climbing is pretty easy. A few more sessions and hopefully any questionable rock will be gone. The upper section is steep! Powerful laybacking with poor feet. Great rock though with a hero finish! Jan 4, 2017