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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2 R
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Monument Canyon
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Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Corner V-easy 3 |
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Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Industrial Strength AKA Wide Load T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 PG13 |
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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R |
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Pina Colada V2 5+ |
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Rainbow Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes V1 5 |
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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wizard I T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.10162, -108.72271 |
| FA: | Harvey T. Carter, Layton Kor, May 5, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 1,322 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mickey Guziak on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a clean aid/free version of a maximum adventure route in The Monument done in 1960 by the greats. It has mostly good rock with the occasional Monument funkage, an amazingly long chimney, and an exciting final pitch which leads to a small, prominent summit.
Start on the north side below the enormous chimney.
P1. Climb thin C1 up to ledge following old pins, traverse left here from original line to wide crack that takes a 6 at the base, then place 4s and 5s,
and get good free climbing (5.9+). This goes up an easy chimney to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2. Do a quick chimney/canyoneering pitch to the start of P3.
P3. Chimney upward (5.9) plugging TONS of thin gear into crack system on the Pharaoh side. It gets wider and wider. Stemming is possible until you finally have to move to crack and start aiding. Two short sections of C2 lead up to spot where a belay can be set up with 2 #3s.
P4. Plug in a super extended piece up a bit higher to avoid a shitty fall, then friction traverse (5.7) right on small feet over to an old, drilled ring piton, rejoining the original aid line. From here, easy runout climbing on junk rock leads to a nice hand-finger crack which you can aid to the top, then a mantel or clip the anchor and pull up to the summit.
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