Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Topher Donahue, Scot Gillespie |
Page Views: | 894 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Doug Haller on Aug 30, 2017 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Please note this description comes from a combination of climbing P1 and P2 and the work of Richard Rossiter.
P1: 10- PG-13, 180 feet. Locate discontinuous, thin finger to hand crack. Climb face and crack to pod (about 40 feet). Place small gear (0 cam/nut), and make face moves to hollow sounding and loose flakes under roof. Move left, and snuggle into wide crack/narrow chimney to place solid gear before stepping right on face above roof. Make series of face/crack moves up and left to gain ledge and next crack system.
P2: 5.7, 220 feet. Depending on the location of your belay (there are many options), move to the left side of buttress/face. Climb 20-40 feet of broken rock, awkward 5.8, to reach 200 feet of 5.4/5.6 scrambling. Follow this up and right to upper pitches of Better Than Love & Love Route. Belay as for Better Than Love at the top of P2.
P3 to P6 per Rossitter 2015:
P3: 5.8. Climb long, left-facing corner (it looks like this is the left side of the triangular dihedral Rossitter describes in Better than Love.)
P4: 5.8 R, 180 feet. Work left below roof, trend up and left, and belay beneath 2 right-facing, right-leaning corners.
P5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the left corner. Belay above the left end of a large roof.
P6: "romp to the top of the wall".
P1: 10- PG-13, 180 feet. Locate discontinuous, thin finger to hand crack. Climb face and crack to pod (about 40 feet). Place small gear (0 cam/nut), and make face moves to hollow sounding and loose flakes under roof. Move left, and snuggle into wide crack/narrow chimney to place solid gear before stepping right on face above roof. Make series of face/crack moves up and left to gain ledge and next crack system.
P2: 5.7, 220 feet. Depending on the location of your belay (there are many options), move to the left side of buttress/face. Climb 20-40 feet of broken rock, awkward 5.8, to reach 200 feet of 5.4/5.6 scrambling. Follow this up and right to upper pitches of Better Than Love & Love Route. Belay as for Better Than Love at the top of P2.
P3 to P6 per Rossitter 2015:
P3: 5.8. Climb long, left-facing corner (it looks like this is the left side of the triangular dihedral Rossitter describes in Better than Love.)
P4: 5.8 R, 180 feet. Work left below roof, trend up and left, and belay beneath 2 right-facing, right-leaning corners.
P5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the left corner. Belay above the left end of a large roof.
P6: "romp to the top of the wall".
Location
This is on Hallett Peak's North Face on the Second Buttress, in RMNP.
Approach: from the base of the 2nd Buttress on the North Face of Hallett Peak, work up and left (east) through a series of ledges to a broad (3 feet x 20 feet) ledge with a large tree on the west end and a right-facing dihedral on the east end. Set a belay at a tree.
Approach: from the base of the 2nd Buttress on the North Face of Hallett Peak, work up and left (east) through a series of ledges to a broad (3 feet x 20 feet) ledge with a large tree on the west end and a right-facing dihedral on the east end. Set a belay at a tree.
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