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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle - 1985
Page Views: 156 total, 12/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This gem will give a glimpse into how things used to be done back in the day. With two bolts in over 100 ft. and very committing climbing with intermittent small/med. gear (not really where you'd want it) you'll need to be dialed in to pull off the lead.......or.......walk to the end North Fin, throw a rope down, and get in a TR run.

Start between the blunt arete and detached pillar by stemming, lay backing, and a little groveling before you stand atop the pillar and look at the remaining 80+ feet of amazing face climbing with several small roof encounters. Use the two bolts to guide your way up the amazing face and arete. If you can manage the two roof sections, the second harder than the first and just past the second bolt, it's hero jugs to the top.

For Windy Point this climb actually has fairly large handholds, but the pulls are long and the footholds not as plentiful as you might like.

Location

Begin the climb just outside The Gallery and left of The Edge of Da-light, essentially climbing straight up the end of the North Fin.

Protection

Small to medium gear, 2 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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I am 5.6 and recall having to really keep my head together but not that the moves once committed to were all that hard but comitting. This is why it is still a 10 in the guidebook which of course means it could be 10+. Nice job leading this one as it is rarely lead. Nov 13, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
This climb was given a grade of 5.10 originally. Maybe it is....who knows? Both my partner and I thought it was hard 10/easy 11. You make the call. Amazing climb! Nov 12, 2016