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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 10,188 total, 52/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

This Lemmon classic is a must-do for tradsters solid in the grade. Fun, but sustained and not entirely casual. Climb broken, blocky dihedrals up to large corner. Layback a beautiful flake up and right for about 12 ft. Exit this flake and finish straight up face to chains. Either lower or walk off.

Protection

Bring a 60m rope and Pro to 2.5". Chain anchors on top. Bring biners and webbing for extension and toproping.
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
AS an outsider, I looked at this route and thought is was contrived and dirty appearing. Wrong. Great line, fun moves, just pure nice 5.8 climbing. May 19, 2013
Tradiban  
 
There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one. Dec 11, 2012
Johnny Ice
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Johnny Ice   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Its good but not sure why its so popular. We had a party waiting in line after us for it like it was some kind of super classic. I had fun but some gear placements that look good might not be so great due to hollow rock. Like always, make sure to check the rock to see if its solid. Its a nice climb if you don't mind people wandering around from Windy point yelling in disbelief at those "crazy rock climbers!" Mar 30, 2011
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
This climb is so fun... finally led it today as my 3rd trad lead and had no issues. Protects well and from generally great stances. Mar 13, 2011
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
eh geir what did i do? i don't know who this don buland guy is but he sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Dec 17, 2009
yeah joe that would be me. i mean what can i say, jon is a beautiful man and chicks dig him, so ladies, you'd better get him while he's still getable! no i'm seriously, he'll be gone before you know it because of all the ladies who are after him. i guarantee you in 3 or 4 years he'll be taken. maybe available again by that time but he'll have been take for at least a month or 2! Dec 17, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Don Buland wrote:oh yeah, i totally agree with jon on this one. completely overrated climb. by the way i have no connection with jon whatsoever and i am totally not his alt, but i think this guy's really smart and you should all agree with him.
lol jon!!!
Dec 10, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Is this the same Don Buland who hangs out in the bars, telling all the ladies what a stud Jon is? Dec 10, 2009
oh yeah, i totally agree with jon on this one. completely overrated climb. by the way i have no connection with jon whatsoever and i am totally not his alt, but i think this guy's really smart and you should all agree with him. Dec 10, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
aw c'mon! someone has to agree with me. otherwise i'll have to log onto an alt and agree with myself. Dec 3, 2009
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
I climbed it for the first time on gear today and thought it was excellent. Fun mild climbing with plenty of bomber placements. I didn't feel any flexing holds. In my opinion it is better than "Slippery When Wet". Nov 21, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
three stars i can see. four just seems like the starbucks effect; it's popular because it's popular. Nov 13, 2009
Climbed it three times last weekend and didn't have a flexing hold anywhere that I could tell. The pro if placed properly is bomber and pretty much every where you need it. Not a four star route but a really good one for the grade. Nov 8, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
i don't understand why this climb is so popular. the gear isn't great and the climbing is blocky and ledgy and like people have said, some of the flakes are flexing. i can understand 3 stars (i guess), but 4? is this a collective effort by the tucson climbing community to keep out-of-towners away and the crowds small? i can see it now; people from boulder getting on this climb and saying, "seriously? this is a tucson classic? all the non-classics must suck."

if the plan is to keep the crowds away i'm all for that, i just never got the memo is all. Nov 8, 2009
I have lead this climb a couple of times over the last 5 years. There is a lot of blocks that flexed when I pulled on them this time around. I don't know if it is all the traffic it has seen over the years but I don't think it is to safe anymore, especially for the belayer. Oct 25, 2009
Kyle Andringa
Sahuarita, AZ
  5.8-
Kyle Andringa   Sahuarita, AZ
  5.8-
I toproped this since I don't have any trad gear. I would say the majority of the route is a 5.7 with 5.8 at the right-sloping crack midway up. That crack is PERFECT. It was a nice break from some of the razor edge rock on the rest of North Fin. May 9, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
the large flake right at the start of this route is loose. pop a cam in and watch it wiggle. it's likely to fall right where you want to put your rope, so be aware. fun climbing on less than solid rock, i doubt a first time leader would be comfy with the gear Oct 25, 2007
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Worth repeating! The layback halfway up felt like the crux with ok pro. Mar 31, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
5.8+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
5.8+
Also wouldn't recommend this for an onsight lead attempt by a beginning trad leader..The climb is steeper than it looks from the bottom, there's some balancy stances and committing moves, and knowing when to sling long is important.

There's bomber pro to be had, but a beginner could easily end up using some of the flaring and/or irregular stuff that might hold a good yank but not a lead fall ( i.e. a placement where you can see two of the cams are well-set but the other two are hard to see and could be tipped out). With all the blocky, ledgy stuff, any fall that pulls a piece is guaranteed to be ugly.

I placed 9 cams + one nut on this. There's probably more passive pro to be had, but I would recommend against going up with just a handful of cams, which might be just the case for a beginner starting his rack. Jun 16, 2006
This is a great climb to take a beginner to and throw them on TR. My buddy who is new to climbing outdoors really enjoyed it. Jun 7, 2006
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Great climb! Don't think I'd recommend it as a first lead, though, which Squeezing the Lemmon does as well. I found it a bit tricky to protect and it was my 110th lead (yes, I keep track, I'm a dork). Feb 28, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.8
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.8
I seem to remember one of the blocks down low was flexing quite a bit the last time I climbed this one. That was probably back in '01 or '02. Nov 30, 2004