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> North Fin
The Edge of Da-light
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
Routes in North Fin
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5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Monsters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bring on the Atheists S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Get Low V0- 4- |
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Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Skin Bracer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | John Steiger, Don Gallagher |
| Page Views: | 189 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Cohn on Mar 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
There are several variations on this route. I called this a 5.10 route because the original route was 5.10. Ray Ringle added the 5.11- variation.
As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.
Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.
As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.
Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.
Photos
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Boise, ID
Tucson, AZ