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The Edge of Da-light
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad |
FA: | John Steiger, Don Gallagher |
Page Views: | 347 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Daniel Cohn on Mar 21, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Description
There are several variations on this route. I called this a 5.10 route because the original route was 5.10. Ray Ringle added the 5.11- variation.
As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.
Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.
As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.
Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.
Photos
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