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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dean Brault, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, & Cres Snyder (2003)
Page Views: 554 total, 12/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Mar 31, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

At a mere forty feet, half of which is approach climbing, this diminutive line packs a surprising punch. Scramble up the somewhat silly start, clipping three bolts, to obtain a large ledge. Grapple with the first crux before transitioning left to the arete for a few shakes. Fire for the chains through ever more desperate moves and be prepared as this one isn't over until the chains are at your waist.

The climbing on this route is unlike its neighbors. Deep horizontals punctuate thin edges. The start and first crux are a bit sharp but the movement is interesting and sustained.

Location

This route is located immediately right of Air Monsters. It is the rightmost line on North Fin proper and ascends Nancy's Thumb Tower.

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors

Photos

Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
I agree with Angel. Nov 22, 2014
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.12a
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.12a
This route felt as hard or maybe harder than Air Monster. May 25, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
 
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
 
Ha! I am not sure I would be able to clip even with shoulder length draws. My tactic for next time is shorter draws that I will just clip at my waist. The fall isn't very far and totally clean, just desperate. The finish really makes the route so it would be shame to avoid it.

Thanks for the name and FA info. Apr 1, 2014
Funny story John. A buddy of mine had pretty long draws on those anchors after his first run. Thus he could avoid making the last move on a top rope. I clipped them short when I went up. He took a good whipper and was pretty pissed until he saw the humor in it. I think he saw the humor in it. Apr 1, 2014