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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Erik Murdock, Jim Scott
Page Views: 2,202 total, 16/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is sustained. Very fun edge climbing with some interesting movement. Holds tax your fingertips a little but well worth climbing.

Location

Walking down the gully into North Fin you will pass "Air Monsters", and three anchors before you see a large fin protrusion. "5 O'clock Shadow climb the face left of this and goes over it near the top.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors.
I usually go the other way and think some climbs are harder than their rating. This one, however, seems much easier than .10+. Real fun. Never really very sketchy at clips. I started to get a burn at maybe the third. Oct 6, 2012
I once SAW a way to SAWlve that problem. Have at it. Jan 8, 2012
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.10+
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.10+
My first route at Mt. Lemmon. Cool moves get you working your feet in a new way. The impalement potential is a definite deterrent, though. Use caution around that tree because my partner almost hit it when falling from the fourth bolt. Jan 6, 2012
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.10+
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.10+
great route, nice thin moves on slightly overhung face. best rock on north fin. enjoy the oak tree if you whip off higher up and try to remember the first thirty feet when you get to the slab ledge ending Oct 25, 2007
jbak  
A pretty good wrench is a 9/16 : 1/2 inch offset box wrench. The 9/16 end will fit most bolts used on Lemmon. You can tie some webbing through the 1/2 inch side so that the wrench can be clipped to your harness. The offset will keep your knuckles from getting scratched up too much. I use a Craftsman 44317.

A tube of loctite is good too. The red loctite is good but seems to dry out in the tube faster than the blue. Don't put all your muscle into tightening. Good and snug with some loctite is good enough. Over-torqueing is bad. Mar 18, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
The nuts on the chain anchors of this climb were very loose when we were there today. As in, at-the-end-of-the-bolt loose. Five-full-turns-to-tighten loose. No one around had a wrench so they are only hand tight. Which leads to a question: what size wrench do standard bolts and anchors use, so I can start carrying one in my pack? Mar 18, 2007