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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Eden Masters
Page Views: 4,573 total · 36/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Aug 25, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

This is a long line that starts off on relatively low angle face with some thin holds and then gets progressively steeper. You might want to stick clip the first bolt or at least use a spotter. The tower on top is fairly steep but has big holds. The route is a challenge mentally with long run out sections and puzzling moves. Nang is a must do climb for sure.

Location

Technically this route is on Blazing Fin. Walk around the south side of North Fin, past past Slippery When Wet, and then go north into the small gulley that separates North and Blazing fins. It is the second bolted route on the left and it goes all the way to the top of the tower.

Protection

A lot of quickdraws. A few nuts are optional. There is a two bolt anchor on top of the tower.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Three beta spoilers for this mega-classic: 1. I placed one size 0 cam (purple Metolius). There were a couple other logical placements, but there always seemed to be a bolt nearby, so I didn't bother. A solid 11- climber with a cool head should really be fine without any gear. 2. The belay anchor is on top of the summit mushroom, which makes it hard to see until you top out. Because of this, extend the last 2 or 3 draws to reduce drag. 3. To make the walk-off a little less stressful, here's what I did: stay tied in, have your second belay you from the anchors across the chasm leap. Then, you can give an alpine style "meat belay" to your second from the notch on the other side. IMO, worth it for a little peace of mind. Feb 7, 2016
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
It has been a while but I believe you can get to the base in two rappels. From Nang rappel to the anchors of My Mother The Rock and then rappel to the ground.

Upon rereading your comment you also needed to clean gear. To do that easily requires two ropes or someone to follow the route. Oct 12, 2015
Byron Hempel
Tucson
 
Byron Hempel   Tucson
 
Don't plan on rapping off this route; I thought a 70 could make it, but the half way point was at the second bolt when I got to the top. There's free booty on the second to last bolt for anyone who has a partner to follow to clean :) Oct 12, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b
This is an absolutely brilliant climb. Best route our family did in a week of climbing here at Mt Lemmon. Has a bit of hard slabby crimps, a little runnout to keep you focused and ends with awesome overhanging jugs. A classic and memorable 5.10 for any area. Do it. Apr 8, 2013
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Cody M   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Awesome climb!! Really long with great movement and solid rock the whole way. The walk off requires one small jump (a few feet) but is otherwise pretty casual. 13 bolts plus two shiny new ones up top for belaying your second. Feb 28, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
Didn't bother me, it's a pretty cool variation actually. I haven't led it yet, but from following seemed like really cool 9+/10a moves over good gear, then you can finish on Nang on the tower by extending the 4th bolt under the chimney and the first bolt on Nang itself.

Seems like the R rating on "Mother" would be from trying to protect the really thin seams at the bottom, wherever they may be (near your bolt line or further to the climber's right). Jan 26, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
The extra bolts right of Nang are my fault. They were the result of a mixup as to where "my mother the rock" really goes. It's not where the book says it is, but after it was all said and done, Todd Bibler said I should leave the bolts, so I did. FWIW, I think it ended up a really fun (now mixed) route (there are four bolts over the course of 150 ft.) Jan 26, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
On the walk-off there's just one step-across move over a 3-4 foot gap that requires a little attention but is easier than it first looks, then the rest is casual. Once on the other side, you stay towards the outside and end up over by the anchors for Agatha Christie on the North Fin (for those who want to leave packs at top). Jan 25, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b/c
I guess they added bolts to the start of "My Mother the Rock". We ended up going up that thinking it was "Nang", but thankfully my partner had plenty of gear, because it's a good 30 feet of sustained face climbing from the third bolt to the fourth bolt under the chimney. Then he trended left and joined up with "Nang". This variation is a great climb in its own right.

If you want to do "Nang", make sure you get on the second bolt line from climber's right. That's definitely the only one of those two lines that fits the "gear-optional" description. Jan 25, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
The walk off to the east is pretty casual, as I recall Dec 13, 2008
In the guide book it says to walk off this thing. Has anyone done that? Looks a little stressful. Dec 11, 2008