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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brad Smith, Nov. 1986
Page Views: 715 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Yeah, yeah, this route has an admittedly overly-dramatic name, but we wanted something classic to memorialize what we thought was a great route. Ironically, Gladiator apparently has faded into obscurity, perhaps another victim of Tucson's late-80s sport climbing surge, which by all accounts continues today. (EFR in Squeezing II gives it no stars; . . . dude, really?) We worked this from the ground up, consistent with the ethic just about to be swept aside, figuring the sequence out by taking repeated falls and lowering to a rest. I slightly remember there being a little suspect rock low on the route, but it has cool position, and from what I can recollect, the climbing is not so much burly as tricky and sequential, with height being an advantage.

Start up Histo, but break left at the top of the right-leaning, right-facing corner, up a crack toward a face protected by a bolt and pin.

Location

Branches off left from Histoplasmosis.

Protection

Standard Tucson trad rack.

Photos

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Nice you did it ground up John. That crux is burly and I didn't figure out the sequence. I was not sure where to move left into the corner. I went at the first chance but I ended up back to the right using holds on Histo where it moves a little left of the main weakness. May 12, 2013
Attempted this route today. Glad I had a long runner to use on a blocky ledge for pro. I used an RP and a gray mastercam to keep it from being pulled off if I happened to fall trying to get to the bolt about 12 feet above the ledge. I didn't fall but I could not get past the bolt without down-climbing and traversing left to the pin. From there I could not get past it. Hmmm Will have to work on this problem. May 12, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
you guys kill me. :)

john- thanks for reviving some of the old classics. can't wait to get on some of them! Aug 24, 2011
Hey John, before you "Dude Really" me again I have been meaning to climb that route for some time and now that you have duded me I will get on it as soon as I am back from my elk hunt. As far as the lack of any stars that may be because I have never talked to anyone who ever climbed it or might have missed it when I was ttttypping. Thanks for the motivational comment. Aug 24, 2011