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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brad Smith, Nov. 1986
Page Views: 757 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Yeah, yeah, this route has an admittedly overly-dramatic name, but we wanted something classic to memorialize what we thought was a great route. Ironically, Gladiator apparently has faded into obscurity, perhaps another victim of Tucson's late-80s sport climbing surge, which by all accounts continues today. (EFR in Squeezing II gives it no stars; . . . dude, really?) We worked this from the ground up, consistent with the ethic just about to be swept aside, figuring the sequence out by taking repeated falls and lowering to a rest. I slightly remember there being a little suspect rock low on the route, but it has cool position, and from what I can recollect, the climbing is not so much burly as tricky and sequential, with height being an advantage.

Start up Histo, but break left at the top of the right-leaning, right-facing corner, up a crack toward a face protected by a bolt and pin.

Location

Branches off left from Histoplasmosis.

Protection

Standard Tucson trad rack.

Photos

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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey John, before you "Dude Really" me again I have been meaning to climb that route for some time and now that you have duded me I will get on it as soon as I am back from my elk hunt. As far as the lack of any stars that may be because I have never talked to anyone who ever climbed it or might have missed it when I was ttttypping. Thanks for the motivational comment. Aug 24, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
you guys kill me. :)

john- thanks for reviving some of the old classics. can't wait to get on some of them! Aug 24, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Attempted this route today. Glad I had a long runner to use on a blocky ledge for pro. I used an RP and a gray mastercam to keep it from being pulled off if I happened to fall trying to get to the bolt about 12 feet above the ledge. I didn't fall but I could not get past the bolt without down-climbing and traversing left to the pin. From there I could not get past it. Hmmm Will have to work on this problem. May 12, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Nice you did it ground up John. That crux is burly and I didn't figure out the sequence. I was not sure where to move left into the corner. I went at the first chance but I ended up back to the right using holds on Histo where it moves a little left of the main weakness. May 12, 2013

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