My Mother the Rock

It’s kinda too bad that Todd and Catherine named this route My Mother the Rock — a mantra often repeated by some of us zealots — because this is somewhat of a ho-hum route by today’s standards.  But it’s the sentiment that counts, eh?  (Although Todd, renown for his satirical wit, may have named this to poke fun at the monomaniacs).  Start up slabby rock protected by three bolts into a seam system that takes decent natural pro. Near the top of the seam, another bolt protects moves into a groove-like chimney.  Belay from gear on a nice ledge or go to the top and arrange an uncomfortable belay from fixed anchors.

Some history: Todd and Catherine, who both became (and might have been then) accomplished Himalayan alpinists, put this up sans bolts, ground up, while overwintering in Tucson from their then hometown of Seattle and rated it 5.9 R.  (Todd is also well known as the originator of Bibler tents, now manufactured by BD, and as an elite paraglider).  According to the comment thread for Nang, the bolts were inadvertently added well after the FA, but reportedly Todd was okay with the bolts remaining in place after he was told about the misdeed. Although I was nodding my head disapprovingly while climbing the route this winter (I also had repeated it shortly after the FA), I admit I clipped them with little hesitation!

Maybe 20 feet uphill to the right from Nang.

Trad rack from brass to a No.3 Camelot.