Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mark Axen, Geoff Parker
Page Views: 3,024 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Immediately right of Agatha Christie there are a couple of ramps that head up to the left into a crack that angles up and right. This crack heads for the most notable feature on the route: the offwidth V at the top with chains on either side (head for the left chains). Start just below the uphill ramp under a nose.

Protection

This route protects fairly well. It has one bolt on it and chain anchors at the top. It is easily top-roped.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
5.8
Christian   Casa do Cacete
5.8
Be careful! While the offwidth at the top is unmistakeable, at the bottom it's pretty easy to head up the start of the 5.10 to the right of Hai Karate by mistake...Which is how I found myself 30 feet up trying to place a micronut from a sketchy stance and basically in fear for my life..Eventually I was able to traverse over to the correct line.. Feb 3, 2006
Logan Westlund
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Logan Westlund   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Stay left over most of climb-- to the right the lichen covered rock yields almost nothing, be careful in the begining as there is a potential to swing out into a tree limb, obvious mantle pretty early, traverse left after. Feb 24, 2008
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
No stars...I find this route to be boring and contrived. I have never understood its popularity. Not trying to be a drag, but there are lots of other great moderates nearby. You won't miss much by skipping this one. Jun 27, 2008
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7+
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7+
James, how can you say this route is contrived? It follows natural weaknesses. And it is the easiest route up the wall. I don't understand your meaning. Nov 25, 2009
Scott Ferguson 1
Denver Colorado
  5.8+
Scott Ferguson 1   Denver Colorado
  5.8+
Getting to the offwidth was a bit tricky for me (although I am a fairly novice tradster). Getting into the offwidth was actually very difficult and committing (and the crack itself was not exactly "unmistakable" from the ground). Fun climb till the offwidth? I'd say so! Mar 19, 2014
Justin Headley
Tucson
5.8
Justin Headley   Tucson
5.8
This is not a route I recommend for newer trad climbers. The moves to get into the offwidth (and stay in it without immediately falling out) are awkward and heady. Or, you could just face climb straight up after the bolt on no pro (or try to place marginal gear off a really pumpy stance). The good news is if you whipped, it'd at least be on a recently-replaced bolt (that's 6-8 feet below you). Nov 19, 2017
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018