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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,209 total, 9/month
Shared By: Steve Pulver on May 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Tricky start could result in a bad fall. Probably smart to throw in one or two pieces before leaving the ground. You'll get a couple of nice hand jams before the route's over.

Location

First route you come to and most obvious crack, when walking down to Nancy's Thumb/North Fin.

Protection

I was able to justify my purchase of a Black Diamond C3 at the start of the route (size 00 I think). The rest of the route used BD #.75,#1,#2, and #3.

Photos

Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
 
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
 
Protection for the early crux is pretty safe in my opinion. Able to get two cams close together in pretty high while standing at the start, then a third after only two moves or so. It's fun and worth doing. Jun 13, 2016
David Adams  
 
I'm with Alex if you don't mind the initial unprotected moves the route is fun and worth doing. Jan 5, 2014
I thought the climb had very good movement, and straight forward pro, and good scenery. Likely not PG-13 territory, but blowing the start would be a scary fall on small pro. Apr 28, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Did this today to regain confidence after being destroyed by Old Man. I thought it was a cool little thing. Just need to be comfortable bouldering a little bit at the start until you get to the .75 placement. I thought the climb was fun! Mar 13, 2011
Definitely a better route to top rope. The first move to get up to the crack is pretty tough (for me, as a beginner)and is the most likely place for you to fall on the whole route. Once you get in to the actual crack, it is a short and straight forward climb. There are two anchors on the top, but if you are going to top rope the climb, you definitely want to set up on the anchor to the right that is a bit below the top of the rock. The other anchor is easier to get to from the top, but if you use it, the rope will pull you off to the left and make the climb much more challenging and almost impossible to get back on the wall if you do fall. Sep 10, 2010
TylerGates
Olympia, WA
 
TylerGates   Olympia, WA
 
I'm glad I didn't read these comments until after doing the climb. I definitely enjoyed it, I just wish it was longer. I had no problem with pro and put in a bomber hex(BD#3, sideways) from the start. I probably would've hit my feet when clipping my second piece, but I have clipped way higher first bolts before. Rest of the gear were cams listed above. Jun 20, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Ugh. Nov 25, 2009
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
This may a be a good one to top rope, which can be done by climbing up the west side of Nancy's Thumb via Ben There Dun That (5.7) or the Regular Route (5.4). If you are looking for a crack to lead, Old Man is a much better choice, right around the corner. Jun 28, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
This route is not very fun, EFR is absolutely right with his other route suggestions. If you get bored or have done these, there are a couple fun moves on this route. The pro is crap for a good part of the route, there are a couple good pieces near the end but ankle busting is a possibility. Nov 25, 2007
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
  5.9 PG13
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
  5.9 PG13
Don't believe the negative hype; a very good route if you're into shorter, tricker climbs. Don't blow the start. Oct 29, 2007
This route is only worth doing if you have done everything else on the mountain. A number of ankles have been sprained or broken on this pile. If you really want to climb a crack do the Old Man, Slippery When Wet, Histoplasmosis, or head to Chimney Rock, The Reef, anywhere but Nancy's Crack. May 23, 2006