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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Steiger, Gary Hervert , Chip Chace, John Sherman
Page Views: 5,020 total, 41/month
Shared By: joshf on Nov 17, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Long fun climb with good protection and a bolt for your sanity near the top. Fairly sustained the whole way up.

Location

Middle of north fin just downhill of genevive and rocket science (painful looking 5.13's)

Protection

Pretty full rack, the gear gets thin at the top, 4 or so quickdraws for the bolts and drag. Make an anchor up top

Photos

Andrew Megas-Russell
Tucson, AZ
 
Andrew Megas-Russell   Tucson, AZ
 
Killer climb! Gear where you want it on the upper headwall. There is a shallow crack about halfway up the upper headwall that takes an .75 X4 version camalot really well. The old style BD did not fit, but the X4 was perfect! Feb 6, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Awesome route! It felt sort of like I was sport climbing on finger-locks and hand-jams. As for the gear: below the bolts I used a #1 bd, two large stoppers, and a #1 and a #2 Metolius, all of which were bomber (especially the stoppers!). I took the aforementioned right-hand exit above the bolts and found three really good placements: two small hexes and one larger stopper. May 19, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
A bomber large nut, then .75 and #1 BDs go in past the bulge, straight-in placements (ie perpendicular to the rock) but about as bomber as straight-in placements can be..

edit to comment above: Geir is a passive-pro master so unless u are likewise, you might consider bringing more cams...(.75s seem to fit in everywhere on this route) Oct 27, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
classic!! an amazingly fun climb!!

stoppers and doubles through blue camalot worked well for me. above the bolts, if you trend up and slightly right (you will end up 4' to the right of the anchors), you should cross at least three solid placements. (spoiler alert) this included a yellow camalot, a yellow alien, and a #3 ballnut. Apr 5, 2010
Totally classic Brian. I know there is another piece between the one you mention and the top just not sure what it is, but it was good. Jesse Schultz might remember as it was his second trad route ever and I am pretty sure he found it too. Dec 15, 2009
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
Eric- I recall the line eating stoppers and cams before the bolts. After pulling the crux (bolt-protected...this route must have gone free on gear only?) I ended up on a little shelf and placed a good .4 BD and shot up right. From the shelf it looks like one can choose a variety of 20-foot exits. The way I took out right was not protected. Maybe heading straight up is the better protected option. Either way, a classic pitch. Dec 15, 2009
Beg to differ on the last 20 feet being run out. I found good pro to the top. Nov 26, 2009
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
This is by far one of the best pitches I've done on Lemmon. It's worth noting that the last 20 feet is run out 10- climbing to the top. Superb movement. Nov 26, 2009
70 meter definitely reaches the ground. Oct 14, 2008
we were able to TR this w/ a 70m off the chains. Fantastically amazing route - looking forward to the redpoint Oct 13, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
With the amount of routes in SQII, mistakes are inevitable efr. Besides, how can i ever forgive myself for quoting a climber without triple checking the sources!? We all know that climbers cannot be trusted! May 29, 2008
Oh sure blame EFR and SQII! You might want to check again there Josh! SQII page 167 14. Hist.....(JS,JSh,83) Not sure why I didn't note the FA's of the original 2 pitches. You see what how easy it is for someone to use me as their scapegoat? Ha, but I am on to you Josh! Just kidding brother. May 25, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
I changed the people in the FA, i noted the EFR guide which has smitty in the FA. Thanks for the corrections John. May 25, 2008
I sort of remember this, because at the time (1983) the local climbers were just getting into the exciting realm of 5.12 (or so we thought). Anyway, this first went free in two pitches, the first led by Gary Hervert -- one of Tucson's best early (McKewen-Baker era) climbers -- and the second led by Chip Chace -- who lived in Tucson for a short while but left quite a trail of hard, impressive ascents, particularly in the Dragoons. All I did was eliminate the hanging belay. Also, I think I was with John Sherman that day, not Smitty. May 24, 2008
Daniel Cohn  
 
Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope. Apr 28, 2008
Hey Dcohn can you get to the ground with a sixty meter rope? Apr 27, 2008
Daniel Cohn  
 
There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional. Apr 26, 2008