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Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche and Torie Kidd
Page Views: 286 total, 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 19, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a sweet hidden crack climb that protects really well. The opening uninterrupted finger crack had me giddy on the first lead. Once we cleaned it out it was just splitter jamming for 20+ feet. Super fun, I hope the few folks who bother with rumney trad head up there and check it out.

This climb had 2 distinct sections. First a really pretty left facing corner split with a perfect finger crack. Then a slightly more varied second half with some hand jams, fingers and face moves.

We belayed from the birch tree at the top and rappeled off but you could easily traverse to the bolted anchor 8 feet to the right if you prefer.

I removed a lot of loose rock, the section I climbed is clean and solid now but do take care as there could be a flake or two near by that could peel off.

Location

Follow the fixed line in the gully on the left. Do not use the line down the middle of the death gully (that needs to be removed). At the top of that rope move left up the gully past a couple of bolted routes. Anchor to a good sized tree just down and right of the obvious pretty corner.

Protection

Finger size to #1 camalot. Anchor sling if you belay from the tree.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I assume you are referring to the line running straight down the gully. I would not recommend ascending that thing. Last year I set up ropes on the left side of the gully that makes it a reasonable hike to get up to this area.

If anyone get's a chance before I do please take down and pack out the old line that is worn to hell. I just updated the description on the route to be more clear. Sep 18, 2017
Troy S
Somerville, MA
Troy S   Somerville, MA
The fixed line that is setup to approach this route is worn to just a few thin threads, tread lightly. Sep 18, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I do not hold it against them for having a typo in the latest guidebook. So many routes to keep track of it's bound to happen, but to be clear "Corax" is from the Latin name for raven. We named the route Corax Crack because of a near by raven nest and raven crap we had to clean off of the climb. "Lorax Crack" as it is listed in the new guide implies that a Lorax crapped all over the route which I admit would be way cooler hahaha. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It was a really nice treat to discover a new true crack climb at Rumney! And one at a grade that most people can enjoy too. I do hope that some of you Rumney folks get out there to check it out. I know that bolts make people more likely to get on stuff out there but this one would be a tragedy to bolt. It's perfect just the way it is. Aug 20, 2016