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Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 2001
Page Views: 908 total · 12/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Dec 1, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Edit]

At the top of the main gully, just right of the Buddha Cave, you will find two bolted climbs. This is the left one. Boulder up until you can layback and stem your way up to the Buddha ledge, then continue up moderate climbing into a corner. Follow this up and then the route arcs off to the left to gain a steep jam crack finish. Pumpy! Good climbing in a fun setting. It may need some recleaning, as it was not in the previous guidebook so received few ascents over the last 10 years. It is definitely worth a rescrub if that is so.

Note- If you have to pee while up here, please walk down the gully and away from the routes and cave or it will reek. Show some respect to the Buddha.

Location [Edit]

Top of the main gully- this is the left of the two bolted routes just right of the cave.
This area is often closed in the spring for Peregrines. When they are not there, ravens will often nest just to the right of this route. When the ravens are there, even if it is technically not closed, please avoid them. They will scare the shit out of you and drop rocks on you anyway if you don't.

Protection [Edit]

12 (mostly?)glue-in eyebolts to a two bolt anchor


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Fun story related to the naming - When I was first exploring for new routes up here I couldn't get anybody to come up with me, so, though I was wary of his dubious and stubborn bolting aesthetics, I invited my friend Keith to come up and find a line to work on. I had already started on this line, so when I heard he had begun bolting a route the day before I got back there that would cut into my line I raced up early in the morning to make sure my line didn't get messed up, figuring if mine was bolted that he would move the middle of his route to the next corner, thereby have two good independent lines. Anyway, he started coming up the gully just as I started bolting and started charging up the gully swinging mad. I looked down and reasoned he would not be much of a threat after huffing up the hill as fast as he could go, so quickly fired in the rest of the bolts to make it a fait accompli. Blood was boiling, but after a quick safety break we were back to friends. Unfortunately, my tactic did not fully work and he ended up staying in the same corner anyway and firing in his own bolts (now Visions of Jerusalem). They are a little close, but it is not so bad. The multiple anchors above are another story that will have to wait. Dec 1, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
haha nice story mark and thanks for adding the route... this cliff is worth while and the hike isnt that bad... unless you're a sport climber :P haha... Dec 2, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
This route would have been fantastic if it was a bit cleaner. Really interesting climbing up a huge steep wall. it's longer than it looks for sure... if it was at a well traveled crag it would get 3+ stars cause it would stay clean... Jul 10, 2012
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'm not sure how long they've been up there, but I believe there are draws on The Gospel right now. Are the anchors cold shuts? quick clips? or just a link on the hanger? Is it possible (or desirable?) to traverse out right from the anchor and into that scoop? Does anyone know if climbing can continue upwards from there?

Nov 29, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I remember the area directly above Gospel as being uninspiring except for the position, but I was looking for 3 or 4 star routes. I didn't see a good natural line that was worth doing. The corner, if I remember correctly, was much easier than any approach pitch. There are some huge blocks to the left that probably should be trundled, but that is a scary prospect because it feels like they would take out the house below when you are up there. On the wall to the right of the corner, easy holds keep leading you back to the corner. The arete to the right (the project second pitch to Visions), while it looks fantastic from the Crows Nest, turns out to not be that good. That is why I never did it, but it should probably eventually be finished.

The scoop you pictured is around right from the arete so you would probably approach it from Visions. I remember that area as being short sections of cool rock between ledges. You would need a good eye and be willing to put a lot of work in to get a good line through there. Personally, I think the effort would be better put into cleaning the approach slab and gully that is already bolted to get you up to the right hand projects, or a communal cleaning of Giant's Chimney, so when I can afford to buy some stainless glue-ins I can bolt it :)). Nov 29, 2012
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I assume you mean "cleaning the approach slab and gully that is already bolted to get you up to the right hand projects". I'm actually VERY psyched on the bolted pitch to climbers right that goes out the roof and ends under another roof / left facing corner. :) I'm guessing that's Karmic (Cosmic?) Realignment? Are there more bolted things to the right of that (up the blocky looking rock)? It's hard to tell because Yellow Knife / Bridge to Nowhere is blocking the start gully. Nov 29, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yes, pardon, to the right. Up the gully, left to right are: 1-Karmic Realignment, 2- a partially cleaned and bolted steep project, and 3- a fully bolted, cleaned (at one time), bolted and TRed project 12d. Nov 29, 2012
Eric Leclerc
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Thank you Mark for finding this line. It is just fantastic! Aug 29, 2015

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