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Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 272 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ian Wauchope on May 16, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Location

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Description

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Protection

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.

Location

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Protection

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Great and thoughtful climbing, but very dirty. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how the section between the last bolt and the anchors would go at only 11b. I suspect something key has broken or was covered in moss and plants. Using the Path of the Righteous anchor would have bypassed this section and made for a fantastic 11a/b. I had to do an A0 move using the hanging webbing from the older anchors adjacent to Northwest's to gain the anchors. Oct 22, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11b
I was able to link the three pitches all the way to the last anchor.
You can lower to the ground if you have a 70 metre rope that has never been cut.
You will barely make it though. Aug 18, 2014