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Northwest Passage
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
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Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.80549, -71.84378 |
| FA: | Tom Armstrong |
| Page Views: | 1,423 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Wauchope on May 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.
Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.
Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.
Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.
Location
Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.
Description
From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.
Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.
Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.
Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.
Protection
The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.
Location
Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.
Protection
The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.
3 Comments