Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 10/14/17
Page Views: 223 total · 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

This is yet another aesthetic line you can easily pick out from the road. It takes the path of least resistance from the ledge above Visions of Jerusalem to the top of the cliff which in it self makes it well worth the adventure. Dizzying exposure and engaging movement are definitely on its list of attributes. Rock quality could be a little better but much of it is quite good, I removed many hazardous rocks but I do have a few more to take care of before its 100% done. In the mean time be very careful if you get on it. But it is a super cool place to be!

From the belay ledge climb the slab sticking to the exposed left edge much of the way. Eventually you get funneled in to a tight corner chimney. Interesting three dimensional climbing makes this section reasonable but difficulty builds to the very end. There is a killer finishing jug above the anchor and an exposed perch foot to the left, Stand here, stem across and take in the scene. You are on top of the world!... or at least Rumney...

TRAM BACK TO THE BELAY!
Lowering without a tram will dangle you in space and could be dangerous.

Location

Staring from the ledge above Vision of Jerusalem follow the easy (5.6?) ramp up and left to the beautiful V-groove chimney. Up that to the anchors then TRAM BACK TO THE BELAY!

Lowering without a tram will dangle you in space and could be dangerous.

Protection

8 bolts to pigtail anchors

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lee, you can't lower to the Gospel or Guardian anchors and rap from there (assuming your belayer is going to follow)? I don't remember if you had to pendelumn in at all to get to them from where the Pleiades anchors are.

I am looking forward to climbing this. I remember the top being really fun when rapping through. Feb 22, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10-
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10-
Mark, yes that would be an option they just aren't comfortable stances so I liked the other way better.

Tell me what you think when you get the chance to try it! :) Feb 22, 2018