Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matthew Keefe, 06/2002
Page Views: 189 total, 5/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The first bolt is quite high but it involves 5.6 climbing if you start a little right of the line. You should still be careful since the rock at the start is blocky and some chunks could come down.
Once on the ledge, you can clip the first draw that belongs to the route on the right but as soon as you clip the second, unclip the first to reduce drag.
Moderate climbing for two more bolts.
The crux is between the 4th and 5th bolts.
The hardest move is a left hand sidepull crimp on the left side of the arete and a right hand crimp on the arete then you place your left foot on a small indentation on the arete and you roll on the left face as much as you can then reach left hand for a good shelf. The rest gets easier.

This route could have a direct start if there was a bolt that could be stick clipped.

Location

When you get to the toe of the cliff, it's the obvious line climbing the arete.

Protection

8 bolts + 2 ring anchor

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12c/d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12c/d
I sent this one today. Once the business kicks in the movement is great. The rock quality could be better. I broke 3 holds on my first run up it, a foot and 2 hands (didn't change the difficulty or sequence really). The last 25 feet is amazing 5.11 climbing on good solid rock, it really makes the route :)

With better rock I'd give it 3 stars, with a fun beginning section it would be classic. As it is... its fun... worth doing and it dries before most other things. Oct 31, 2017