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Routes in Summit Cliff (The Highlands)

Aiming for the Pleiades S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corax crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Dingle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Four Seasons S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Giant's Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gospel According to Mark, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Guardian, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karmic Realignment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northern Lights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Passage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing on the Right TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of the Righteous S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumpus Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Bump Dumper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visions of Jerusalem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yid Kid, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 9/16/16
Page Views: 800 total, 52/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Legend:
It is told that this section of cliff was once guarded by a fierce dragon who could breathe fire to melt the stone and whose sharp talons could gouge the rock like a spade in soft earth. In the great battle of Rumney The Guardian laid scores of rock warriors to waste. No one knows what became of this most feared beast. Some say he still lurks in the caves and crevices of the Highlands. The 3 streaks that mark this route are the only surviving proof of the existence of this mythical creature, as they were made by his lethal claws. It is considered an act of great bravery to this day to attempt to scale the The Guardian's wall... Come fourth brave soul.

You can gain the ledge at the base of the route by scrambling up the tunnel cave at the base of the gospel according to mark. Otherwise you could climb a bit of the Gospel or Where the wild things are. Once there its pretty comfy but you may anchor to the tree on the ledge. This is a nice hang out spot.

Climb up Giant's Chimney reaching out right to clip the first 2 or 3 bolts. At this point break out on to the face and continue up to an ok rest before the hard stuff begins. Crux 1 involves a bouldery corner involving stemming and some trickery and ends at a nice no hand rest. Catch your breath because from here it stays steep and the game is on all the way to the anchor. Extremely varied climbing for the top 1/3 of the route. Crimps, slopers, all sorts of kneebars (left kneepad recommended), a chimey move or two and eventually a heroic exposed jug haul to the top.

This thing is truly epic, exposed, interesting, enjoyable and quite frankly the best climb on the cliff... I checked ;)

Location

The route starts from the ledge at the base of Giants Chimney, 25 feet up. You start in the chimney for about 20 feet following wave bolts to the right of the chimney breaking right on to the steep face at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

You can gain the ledge at the base of the route the "buddah Ledge" by squirming up a little cave that feels fairly secure.

Protection

12 wave bolts to anchor.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Very cool Eric, nice job on Four Seasons! Aug 31, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
I keep your 11a for the day I come back for Karmic. I didn't want to wear my fingers out before going on 4 seasons. I went on it last year and found all the moves but didn't have enough skin left to send it. Sent it this Saturday. The top was covered with lichen before my send but on my first go, I brushed a lot and it makes the end much more pleasant. I could have blown the send at the end so it was dirty. Aug 28, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Great to hear! Did you do the 5.11a extension I added on Wild Things? And how did 4 seasons go? I've gotta do that one. Aug 28, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
This Saturday I went to climb Four Seasons at Summit Cliff.
While I was warming up on Where the Wild Things Are, I was looking at Lee's latest addition to this cliff (The Guardian) and I couldn't stop drooling.
I will 100% come back for this stunning line!!! Aug 27, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I got back up there today to finish cleaning, retrieve my draws and install some pigtails/ram horns on the anchor. While in the neighborhood I grabbed a repeat on the route and it was even more fun the second time! I can't overstate just how FUN this route is!!!! Oct 14, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks Eli, I had a lot of time hanging up there to think up the tale haha. Sep 17, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Nice description Lee. I wonder if people will go for Rumney Lore. You could make a competing guidebook I suppose. Sep 17, 2016