Type: | Sport, 45 ft |
FA: | Jim Shimberg, 1995 |
Page Views: | 82 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Eric Leclerc on Aug 18, 2014 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Description
For the first three bolts, it's only 5.10 climbing. You either attack the crux straight up but the fifth clip will be really hard or you go take a break on a ledge just left of the fourth draw.
From the ledge, you can take a shake, install the fifth draw and clip it. You will then have to go back down the ledge and to the right to resume climbing and face the brutal crux. I left a little bit of skin on this one. To clip the sixth bolt, you better keep climbing to a jug if you want to avoid a pumpy clip.
The falls looked all good to me so no real runout in this one except from the sixth to the anchor but it's only 5.8 climbing. I would consider this route rather bouldery.
There was a liitle bit of lichen but just at the top when the real thing is over.
From the ledge, you can take a shake, install the fifth draw and clip it. You will then have to go back down the ledge and to the right to resume climbing and face the brutal crux. I left a little bit of skin on this one. To clip the sixth bolt, you better keep climbing to a jug if you want to avoid a pumpy clip.
The falls looked all good to me so no real runout in this one except from the sixth to the anchor but it's only 5.8 climbing. I would consider this route rather bouldery.
There was a liitle bit of lichen but just at the top when the real thing is over.
goffstown, nh
This is one of 2 bolted 11s at rumney i havent done yet... the other is The Mean Lean which i tried but was too tired to send... thing is hard!
thanks for checking this one out for me :) Aug 21, 2014
Montreal
We will also have to find a plan to send that weird 11d at Black Jack Boulder... Aug 21, 2014
goffstown, nh
So few others are interested in these oddities... that black jack route is a pain but i think i have a good plan of attack, ill let you know when i plan to get after it. Aug 24, 2014
goffstown, nh