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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullet T WI3+ M6+
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, Mixed, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. D. Merrit, Buster Jesik, Easy E., Noah McKelvin
Page Views: 425 total, 22/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Apr 26, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Ms. Inferno is an awesome short route for bad weather days that is a bit harder and scarier than Bullet. For additional bonus points, bring some ghost pepper salsa.

P1 - (M5+ PG-13) locate a crackless, small corner to the left of the Bullet ice. This is pretty much 15 feet left of the arete that forms the left OW variation of Bullet. Scratch your way up M5+, insecure terrain. It turns from a highball boulder problem into don't fall terrain rather fast. Soon enough protection comes. Aim for a small, M5+ roof. Pull over, and another M5+ mantel leads to a nice stance right below a splitter. It could be easier, it could be harder. Snow was covering everything.

P2 - (M7) thankfully this pitch protects well. Climb the wide, slightly overhanging splitter. This leads to a roof. Cut your feet loose, and do the hard committing mantel. One last M5+ corner leads to the belay atop Bullet.

P3 joins Wharton's additional M6 Bullet pitch.

Location

This is about 100 feet left of Bullet near the arete on the left. You can see the crack system that starts high off the ground.

Protection

A spectre, a pecker, an AK, and some cams.

Photos

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