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Ms. Inferno
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British V3 YDS 6A Font M7 PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in NE Buttress Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
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Analysis Paralysis T M6 |
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Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Bullett T WI3 M6 |
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Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R |
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Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4 |
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Englishman's Route M5-6 |
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Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M5- |
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Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow |
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Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Krishna Cutoff T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b M1 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13 |
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North Face Direct M2-3 Steep Snow |
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Ricochet T M5-6 PG13 |
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Slit, The T M5-6 |
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Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Boulder, Mixed, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30751, -105.674 |
| FA: | J. D. Merrit, Buster Jesik, Easy E., Noah McKelvin |
| Page Views: | 1,652 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Noah McKelvin on Apr 26, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Ms. Inferno is an awesome short route for bad weather days that is a bit harder and scarier than Bullet. For additional bonus points, bring some ghost pepper salsa.
P1 - (M5+ PG-13) locate a crackless, small corner to the left of the Bullet ice. This is pretty much 15 feet left of the arete that forms the left OW variation of Bullet. Scratch your way up M5+, insecure terrain. It turns from a highball boulder problem into don't fall terrain rather fast. Soon enough protection comes. Aim for a small, M5+ roof. Pull over, and another M5+ mantel leads to a nice stance right below a splitter. It could be easier, it could be harder. Snow was covering everything.
P2 - (M7) thankfully this pitch protects well. Climb the wide, slightly overhanging splitter. This leads to a roof. Cut your feet loose, and do the hard committing mantel. One last M5+ corner leads to the belay atop Bullet.
P3 joins Wharton's additional M6 Bullet pitch.
Location
This is about 100 feet left of Bullet near the arete on the left. You can see the crack system that starts high off the ground.
Photos
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