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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullett T WI3 M6
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 466 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Mar 12, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

While really a variation to Bullet, this pitch is brilliant and significantly easier than Bullet. As such, it seems to deserve its own route page. This may well be the best grade 4 pitch that I have climbed in the park.

Climb the first pitch of Bullet until about 10 feet below the anchor. Step left onto the blob of ice on the left wall, climbing over this into a handcrack that leads to a small alcove. Rather than climbing up the ugly looking, wide crack above, exit the alcove on flakes to the left, and climb straight up to the slabby terrain, joining Bullet again before the anchor.

Location

This route climbs the left wall of the Bullet dihedral.

Protection

Some screws including some short ones and a standard rack to #2 Camalot. A knife blade or lost arrow might be nice up top to provide top rope protection through the final engaging bit of climbing.

Photos

Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
i sketched this crack into my topo with plans to return to it. good on ya. i knew it looked fun. 2 days ago