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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13
Bullett T WI3+ M5-6
Central Couloir Right T M2
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow
Left of Cleft M4 Steep Snow
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2 Steep Snow
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??? (Possibly E. Klammer and E. Farrell)
Page Views: 290 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eric Klammer on May 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Booby Trap wanders up the indistinct and ledgy buttress located between The Cleft and Hallett Couloir. While the upper and lower sections climb easy terrain and have most likely been covered before, the crux pitch ascending the prominent rock band at half height showed no signs of previous passage with abundant loose rock and an exciting "booby trap" near the top.

With the exception of the crux pitch, this climb is an exercise in choosing your own adventure and moving efficiently over easy terrain.

P1. Begin at the toe of the rock buttress just right of the start of The Cleft couloir. Wander up and slightly right following the path of least resistance. On the day of our ascent, the snow was very unconsolidated, and we stuck to the rock as much as possible. We soloed this "pitch" and encountered some fun turf and rock sections. Continue to the base of the rock step and belay below the middle dihedral/crack system. Beware of choss. M2-M3 (~300').

P2. Ascend the middle, right-facing dihedral that begins ~12-15' above you. Begin directly below the dihedral in a finger crack/seam that provides good pick locks and decent gear. Once at the good ledge below the start of the dihedral, place some good gear, and fire it! A steep start with great hummocks and torques leads into a lower angle section that gradually widens. Gear begins to fade out, but the difficulty eases as you move higher. Below the small roof capping the dihedral, you will encounter the booby trap, a pile of 8 or so toaster-sized blocks somehow supported by a too-small-for-comfort chockstone. Delicately stem over this mess, then move out and right from under the roof with okay gear. Place a good last piece, then run it out 20' over easier but very loose terrain. Here the angle eases, and it is another 90' or so to a good belay tree. 5.8+/M5- (170').

P3. This is similar to P1. Angle up and right, choosing the path of least resistance or most fun. Near the top, it is possible to move right into a small couloir and continue the last couple of minutes to the top. Solo or simul.M2-M3 (~400').


This is right of The Cleft and left of Hallett Couloir. See the topo photo.


Finger to #3 sized (BD) cams and a small rack of nuts. A Moses Tomahawk or other thin pin can be useful.



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