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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullet T WI3+ M6+
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: ?????
Page Views: 2,286 total, 22/month
Shared By: J. Fox on Jun 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route starts on the north face of the east ridge/buttress of Hallett Peak. Above Emerald Lake, and about 100' east of Hallett Couloir, ascend a steep and narrow couloir for ~200' then turn climber's right up low 5th class terrain towards a cleft in the cliffs above.

When my partner and I climbed this, the rock section out of the couloir was pouring water. Climb the waterfall to the cleft for ~60m (We did it un-roped) and position yourself below the cleft chimney. You should be able to see an old pin halfway up the chimney.

This chimney is the 1st crux. Depending on what time of year you arrive, it could be ice/snow, or all rock. It was all rock at the end of May. Stem the chimney or whatever it takes to get up it. The rock is loose here. Move right out of the chimney and then climb another steeper pitch of snow for ~80m to a small roof/overhang.

Pull the roof and then climb a bit more snow. Move right and belay from another overhang. Circle around it and climb the final steep snow slopes to the blocky summit.

Location

North face of the east ridge/buttress on Hallett Peak above Emerald Lake. ~100' east of Hallett Couloir. Descend via Hallett Couloir, or you can walk off the back and down to Lake Haiyaha if snow conditions in the descent couloir are too dangerous. Take the Lake Haiyaha trail back to Dream Lake.

Protection

Standard mixed rack. Cams to BD C4 #2, selection of nuts. We used a 60m rope and had to simul up the steep snow on P3 some.

No anchors, only one old pin on P2.
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
Thanks Eli! Nice meeting you as well. Jun 1, 2009
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
Fun seeing you guys up there yesterday.

For sure this route and the others were in good shape earlier in May, usually starting to get good by mid-April.

More info: climbinglife.com/alpine-rou…

Way to get it done! Jun 1, 2009
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
When Erik and I climbed this on 5/31/09, it was mostly snow and rock climbing/drytooling...no ice. Perhaps this route comes in better earlier when there might be ice on it. We climbed that water fall and thought it might form up some nice ice, or it could just all be snow.

The rock section was hard to grade since we climbed it in heavy mountaineering boots. Felt like 5.9 but I'm sure that's subjective since I was at altitude, wearing a large pack and climbing in big boots. YMMV. Jun 1, 2009