Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: BBQ
Page Views: 305 total · 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Apr 9, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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It's like gettin' nookie from a Wookie!

Starts steep, ends steeper! The route begins with a really cool swath of pockets that brings on the pump early until a decent rest at the fourth bolt.

Get rested up and get it all back! The next series of moves involve a bouldery roof pull crux that starts on jugs, picks a fight with some small pockets, and ends with a hellacious huck to a very positive jug. Watch it, kid! These moves might just rip your arms out of their sockets, but worry not, this crux is well bolted...imagine Gabba The Nut moves without the Gabba ride.

Pull up to the next rest and get ready to battle the next crux through a layback flake that is on your ass all the way to the anchors. If you are a fan of Breast Pump, be sure get on your knees for this big, hairy beast and milk it for all its worth!

Location

This would be the 6th route from the very left hand side of The Darkside Wall. If you have Cronin's new guidebook, ChewCocka would be the route just to the right of Black Magic.

Protection

Bring a dozen draws plus two more for the anchors if you plan on letting someone top rope. Anchors are open. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

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Get on it! Apr 9, 2016
Mark Ellefson
Spearfish, SD
 
Mark Ellefson   Spearfish, SD
 
Great addition to the wall Apr 26, 2016