Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Michelle Cronin
Page Views: 459 total · 9/month
Shared By: harrison t on Jul 28, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

The "New Shady Lady" No Stemming. Start to the right of 'Tough Love' Stick clip the first bolt (15ft off the ground)
Make cool hard moves using little slopey, textured, bitchy sidepulls and crimps to a good hold at the 1st bolt. Get a little shake and bang out the rest of the burly crux to a good hold at the 2nd bolt. Continue up the bolt line using face holds and the arete here and there to a nice, airy redpoint crux. Pumpy climbing on great holds to the top.
This route is too good.

Location

To the right of Tough Love. Bolted line left of chimney. Don't let the lady spread your legs by stemming off the formation to the right.

Protection

7 or 8 Bolts. Stick clip the first

Photos

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luke13  
Hard start definitely ups the old 12c grade to 12d. Clip the first bolt of Tough Love and then the higher 1st bolt of Shady Lady to keep the rope out of the way. Must do for the grade in Spearfish Canyon. Aug 1, 2017