Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 294 total · 4/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

A spectacular crux sequence should draw anybody breaking into the grade to this climb. Climb through the crux of Passover then split right at the undercling/block. Grab a quick shake here then head straight up to the bulge on small crimps. Clip then grab a small left sidepull to initiate the right traverse. The feet are terrible but the undercling cross to the pocket should make you remember why you love climbing. Pull over the bulge and find the 'thank god' clip hold or take the whip. Easier moves gain the anchors.

[Edit: Grade changed to reflect the comments below regarding the moved bolt. 13a posted to 12d]

Location

Starts at the first bolt line on the left then splits at the undercling block, going straight up rather than angling left (Passover). Marginal belay stance.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
Caleb Hansen   Rapid City
Not .13 anymore i think lee moved to crux bolt, the move used to be out left with a windmill move to a crimp, sneaky bastard coin found the sequence to the pockets out right, still awesome route... Jul 25, 2012
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
  5.12c
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
  5.12c
More like 12c, better now that it follows holds and not forced out left. Jul 25, 2012
lee terveen
Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.12c/d
lee terveen   Spearfish, South Dakota
  5.12c/d
maybe 12d sandbagger you still get pretty pumped and the direct way may have been a touch harder than 13a Jul 26, 2012