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Routes in Dark Side Wall

Admiral Slackbar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Belaybesitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blast Off S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breast Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
ChewCocka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choda S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choobies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concracktion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darth Gaydar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
E-walk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Establishing Dominance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gabba the Nut S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gives Good Helmet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail President Screwed! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Han Job Solo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into Exile S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lactation Station S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millennium Falcon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mister Fister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muira, Muira On The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Obi-Wan KanBlowMe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Passover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paternity Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power of the Darkside S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prison Bound S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sith S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Star Fighter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stump in the Rump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suck To Blow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tough Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
black sunday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
death star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 92 total, 3/month
Shared By: slim on Jun 16, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

black sunday is a great little route at the dark side. this might be the best candidate for a first 12a route here, given its shorter length, lack of brutal tweaking pockets, and perfect protection.

begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets. this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock. try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux. from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors. don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone...

this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.

Location

this route is around 120 feet (right) from the left end of the dark side wall, and approximately 50 feet left of the laser cut arete that makes up 'sith' and 'tough love'. this area has a little stone wall and shelf that houses the aqueduct pipe. black sunday is located just left of a big slot/chimney with a ton of orange lichen. the route itself has a fair amount of orange lichen in the top section, which helps in identifying it.

Protection

approximately 6 bolts and open shut anchors.

Photos

Julia
 
Julia  
 
Small pockets and feet, great climb if you are on the shorter side, no reachy moves! Sep 5, 2015
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
 
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
 
Short and sweet, this climb has some great pocket pulling on it. Jul 21, 2015