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Routes in Dark Side Wall

Admiral Slackbar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Belaybesitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blast Off S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breast Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
ChewCocka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choda S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choobies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concracktion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darth Gaydar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
E-walk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Establishing Dominance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gabba the Nut S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gives Good Helmet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail President Screwed! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Han Job Solo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into Exile S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lactation Station S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millennium Falcon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mister Fister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muira, Muira On The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Obi-Wan KanBlowMe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Passover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paternity Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power of the Darkside S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prison Bound S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sith S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Star Fighter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stump in the Rump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suck To Blow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tough Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
black sunday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
death star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Commander Cronin
Page Views: 165 total, 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Aug 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A route that deserves more stars than in gets in the guidebook. Has been described as having holds, for the first two bolts, that are always sandy like Tattooine.

The opening holds are actually bad ass if you just use em' right! Think of it as escaping Luke's shithole of a home planet. BUT! By the time you reach a series of sick, hard to read pockets at the second bolt, you are in the stratosphere roof sequence. By now the sand is gone and you better find the right holds and hang on tight. Get your ass into orbit because the Millennium Falcon will shoot you down if you are a puddly padwan.

The climbing becomes glorious after that slightly sandy annoyance and the rock becomes sick! Climb the fabulous asteroid field of crimps to BASTARD UNDERCLINGS! Find your way to a dihedral sequence that involves powerful, precise pulling over the bulge from Jabba's bowels. Find holds on the right side of the bolt line...find the right combination of feet...and stick some sick crimps just right to a jug. SICK SPORTY CRUX SEQUENCE!


For the final moves, get caught in a tractor beam of beautiful jugs, ledgey feet and one last hard sequence with massively positive crimps to gain the anchors.

Location

Found to the right of a massive crack system just past Shady Lady. Located to the left a huge black ramp of rock that is to the left of Choobies.

ROUTE FORKS RIGHT! The bolt line on the left is a 5.12c known as Star Fighter.

Protection

10 quickdraws. Open Anchors.

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