Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 1,114 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 27, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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A big, bad-ass of a climb that starts as an about-face with nice, big, bad-ass pockets on steep terrain that never, ever lets up.

You'll know when you're fist deep in the shit as a series of huge cracks throw down some punishing, yet oddly pleasurable pulls and deep fist jams. The route gets freaky when it makes you reach around to yank on some big, hard ledges that climax in some moves that might have you wishing you had experimented with some other rough fantasy.

THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME! In the end, it is a tough climb that becomes nearly devine when you figure out exactly what the beta is and can turn the rough stuff into fetishly good fun!


Fourth route from the left. Shares its first three bolts with a 5.12 known as Black Magic and starts to trend left. And for Heaven's sake don't be a pud puller and go TOO far out left at the start. There is a bit of a traverse on this route down low but stay out of the crack with the chockstone in it. Don't avoid cruxes! Taste it!


10 bolts. Open Shunt Anchors. Latex, leather and lube.


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