Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 699 total · 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 27, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A big, bad-ass of a climb that starts as an about-face with nice, big, bad-ass pockets on steep terrain that never, ever lets up.

You'll know when you're fist deep in the shit as a series of huge cracks throw down some punishing, yet oddly pleasurable pulls and deep fist jams. The route gets freaky when it makes you reach around to yank on some big, hard ledges that climax in some moves that might have you wishing you had experimented with some other rough fantasy.

THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME! In the end, it is a tough climb that becomes nearly devine when you figure out exactly what the beta is and can turn the rough stuff into fetishly good fun!

Location

Fourth route from the left. Shares its first three bolts with a 5.12 known as Black Magic and starts to trend left. And for Heaven's sake don't be a pud puller and go TOO far out left at the start. There is a bit of a traverse on this route down low but stay out of the crack with the chockstone in it. Don't avoid cruxes! Taste it!

Protection

10 bolts. Open Shunt Anchors. Latex, leather and lube.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Decent rock with fun moves down low followed by deteriorating, dirty rock up high. Moves are fun, but the rock quality kind of sucks. There were a few good jams to be found in dirty cracks. Jul 5, 2016
BBQ
  5.11a
BBQ  
  5.11a
All the superior local climbers warm up on this one. Three to four stars for sure! But I know what you mean, I was in a gym, in Boulder, just the other day, and some dust on the plastic hold at the crux ruined my send. So irritating. Jul 5, 2016
chris tregge
Beersconsin
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
I've been LOLing at your replies all day Brent Jul 5, 2016