Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dark Side Wall

Admiral Slackbar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Belaybesitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blast Off S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breast Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
ChewCocka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choda S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choobies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concracktion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darth Gaydar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
E-walk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Establishing Dominance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gabba the Nut S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gives Good Helmet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail President Screwed! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Han Job Solo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into Exile S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lactation Station S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millennium Falcon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mister Fister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muira, Muira On The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Obi-Wan KanBlowMe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Passover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paternity Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power of the Darkside S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prison Bound S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sith S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Star Fighter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stump in the Rump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suck To Blow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tough Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
black sunday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
death star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Curt Love
Page Views: 217 total, 3/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If you climb the grade, get on this!
If you don't, this is the reason to train.
Put off that patio project for another summer and go climbing instead. Miss your son's birthday because of good temps. It's that good.

It's a well bolted line that dominantly follows the arete, staying on the right face with a few shared holds with the climb to the left, Sith.

Hit the first two bolts with a devious thin sequence and tenuous second clip (there could be other more secure beta here). Make a big move to a tiny hold then grab the solid left sidepull for the 3rd clip. Gain the matched crimp for the 4th clip. Take a deep breath then enter the crux. Apparently my method is not the approved method, but it worked. Cross right right hand to the 45 degree portion of the crimp rail then work the left hand up the arete. Paste your right foot on the very edge of the arete, up high (smear only). Flag the left around the arete then lunge to the shallow heart-shaped pocket. Work over to the clip then up for one last hard move: Left pocket, right mono, high left foot then crank into the jug for a rest.

From here follow the arete but it's only sporting to try and stay on the right face as much as possible. The middle 3rd of the climb is fairly easy but super fun. There's some harder moves at the top so keep the pump under control. Keep pushing until you gain the hold over the anchors.

Location

Look for the best looking line on the wall. This is it.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos

Mark Ellefson
Spearfish,SD
  5.12d
Mark Ellefson   Spearfish,SD
  5.12d
A link up between tough love and shady lady makes a nicely sustained route. Might be 13a Oct 4, 2017