Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Bolted by BBQ FA: Mark Ellefson|
|Page Views:||392 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||BBQ on Apr 23, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
DescriptionThe newest member of the Dark Side crew is definitely one of the best on the wall. Shares the first 8 bolts of Obi-Wan KanBlowMe. Enjoy a swath of beginning pockets and crimps. Pull the bouldery roof at the middle of the route and enjoy a lawn chair of a rest. Once you've got your nerves calmed down, traverse right along a serious under-cling crack system. The Slackbar variation leads you to finger cracks and juggy things that will make your eyes pop out your head until you get positioned under another massive roof.
Attack the roof with everything you have and stand up to reach a bread loaf pinch and a side pull, rocket those feet up to something that is friendly to the Rebel Alliance. Take aim and fire for a left hand pocket while launching yourself onto the very edge of an exposed arete and well above your last bolt.
BE PREPARED TO GET SHOT DOWN! This climb is full value and on your ass from start to finish with a classic, heart-breaking red point crux at the end. Expect to get blasted! So far, many of us in the Canyon Crew have turned this bulbous beast into a full time project. GET ON IT AND GO FOR A RIDE INTO HYPERSPACE!
LocationFrom the left hand side of the Dark Side Wall the climbs are Passover 5.12a, Gabba the Nut 5.12d, Prison Bound 5.12c, Mister Fister 5.11a, Black Magic 5.12b, ChewCocka 5.11c, with Obi-Wan KanBlowMe 5.12+ and the Admiral sharing the first eight bolts of Obi-Wan and then heading right on tan colored bolts.
If you have the new Cronin Black Hills Limestone guidebook, Admiral Slackbar is just to the left of Choada.