Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bolted by BBQ FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 596 total · 18/month
Shared By: BBQ on Apr 22, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This climb will prove itself to be a worthy adversary for any Jedi Master. From start to finish this route contains many feet of classic canyon climbing in all its imposing forms.

Things start hard at the beginning. Use your mellow mind control to sneak into a docking bay of sick pockets and nearly perfect crimps to big jugs under a roof. Get it all back and pull a mighty powerful set of roof pull moves to a nice ledge to rest on.

Get yourself set up and rested up at the first black bolt and then follow the trail of black hangers. This is where the dark side of the force meets even more force as you pull another roof and work your way up a steep head wall of tiny crimps and small side pulls. Battle through the hardest crux sequence with quite a few feet of utterly fantastic terrain that will blow your mind when you huck for a large jug and paste your feet to absolutely nothing before you make a life-saving clip.

Enjoy three more spaced out bolts on sick, black slab with nothing to hold on to right up until the anchors. There is no escaping how freaking cool this route is. Anyone who has enjoyed all of its Star Wars themed neighbors will cheer with joy and excitement when they finally send this worthy addition to the Dark Side universe.

Location

If you have the new Cronin guidebook, this spectacular new route is located between Black Magic and Choda.

Upon arriving at the Dark Side Wall, the routes from left to right will be; Passover, 5.12a, Gabba the Nut, 5.12d, Prison Bound, 5.12c, Mister Fister, 5.11a, Black Magic, 5.12b, ChewCocka, 5.11c and then Obi-Wan KanBlowMe. Follow eight Canyon Cream colored bolts to a black bolt and then follow the line of black bolts going up the middle of the face.

Protection

Bring a dozen quickdraws.

Photos

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