Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 7/25/15
Page Views: 457 total · 11/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Established ground-up, this seam was very clean at the hardest sections down low but had a fine layer of dust/lichen/moss covers the upper part of the route. However, it has since been scrubbed and now offers a great traditional challenge.

Climb a loose/dirty slab to the base of the large roof. Place some perfect finger sized pieces then pull onto the roof and traverse left along a nice rail. Get a nest of good gear, work into a solid undercling flake, and crank past the roof using long reaches, toe hooks and a hidden hold out right. Place another nest of good gear in a thin horizontal crack and punch it for easier ground. Enjoy a splitter 5.10a finger/hand crack with lots of face holds to the top.

Although this route is protected by trad gear, it climbs like a sport route. The only place you jam a crack is the much easier top section.

Watch the rope when you lower, it tends to get stuck in the crack.

Location

Look for two cracks about 20 feet apart that split a roof 80 feet left of the first bolted route(a project) you encounter when approaching from the left. Rolling Coal climbs the left crack.

Protection

Gear from 00 C3 to a #4 Camalot with emphasis on finger sizes. There is a fixed nut anchor with runners and carabiners.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
What a bunch of redneck douche bags! Jul 27, 2015
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Scrubbed the upper part. Still some lichen and moss but much cleaner now. Enjoy! Aug 28, 2015