All Locations > Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > Lilly Bluff

Rolling Coal

Name: Rolling Coal
Rating: 3.0

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in Lilly Bluff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blasphemy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Blasphemy Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Boogie Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Crackin' Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	First Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Giggle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ivy League S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Junior's BBB S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Last Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Organized Crime S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Trickin the Weasel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
GPS:	36.1022, -84.7184
FA:	Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 7/25/15
Page Views:	1,510 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Taylor Roy on Jul 26, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Established ground-up, this seam was very clean at the hardest sections down low but had a fine layer of dust/lichen/moss covers the upper part of the route. However, it has since been scrubbed and now offers a great traditional challenge.

Climb a loose/dirty slab to the base of the large roof. Place some perfect finger sized pieces then pull onto the roof and traverse left along a nice rail. Get a nest of good gear, work into a solid undercling flake, and crank past the roof using long reaches, toe hooks and a hidden hold out right. Place another nest of good gear in a thin horizontal crack and punch it for easier ground. Enjoy a splitter 5.10a finger/hand crack with lots of face holds to the top.

Although this route is protected by trad gear, it climbs like a sport route. The only place you jam a crack is the much easier top section.

Watch the rope when you lower, it tends to get stuck in the crack.

Location

Look for two cracks about 20 feet apart that split a roof 80 feet left of the first bolted route(a project) you encounter when approaching from the left. Rolling Coal climbs the left crack.