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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Taylor Roy and Rebecca Cuniberti 8/9/15
Page Views: 631 total, 23/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 10, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

I can't tell you how many times I have been told this by the locals.

Established ground up, YAFRH climbs the steep face with a crack up high between Whippersnapper and Lounge Lizard. Ends below the final roof near two small trees in a small cove.

Start about 20 feet right of Whippersnapper and scramble up the right side of the scoop to the base of a small overhang. Place some nice pieces in a solid flake and do a quick lieback move to get over the roof to a good rest below some huge, scary flakes. Get some great gear in a few horizontal cracks, move left about 6 feet to avoid all the dubious rock and pull gently for about 15 feet until you get to a ledge below the steeper headwall. Follow uncut jugs heading towards the obvious crack. Watch out for the occasional hollow sounding block and keep following the crack to a ledge and a three nut anchor below the upper roof.

Location

Between Whippersnapper and Lounge Lizard.

Protection

#0 C3 to #3 Camelot. Bring slings. I left a directional nut about 3/4 of the way up to help retrieve gear. Lower off a three nut anchor

Photos

brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
  5.10c
brian k sohn   knoxville, tn
  5.10c
There's a block larger than a microwave near the top of the route that will come off if you pull on it. There is now a chalk "x" on it. It's right below the roof with the anchor, above the fixed nut described in the route description above. When climbing this route, pull down, not out! The anchor was mostly cleaned, someone left one nut. I left another one. Don't fall on this route after clipping the fixed nut--you could hit the tree. I did. But I was so happy I didn't pull off the microwave plus size boulder it didn't bother me. A little scrubbing of the lichen to clean up the feet and this will be a pretty good route. As to gear I didn't use anything smaller than a black tri-cam. The biggest piece I used was a #2 camalot. Jul 18, 2016