Lilly Bluff Rock Climbing
Routes in Lilly Bluff
Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blasphemy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Blasphemy Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Boogie Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Crackin' Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
First Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Giggle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Ivy League S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Junior's BBB S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Last Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Organized Crime S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Trickin the Weasel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 1,251 ft | 381 m |
GPS: |
36.1022, -84.7184 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 118,043 total · 569/month | |
Shared By: | Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.
Getting There
Park in one of the two paved parking lots on either side of the Lilly Bridge. At the west end of the bridge, look for an obvious trail near a bear-proof trash can that heads into the woods. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Rocking Chair |
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport | ||
● Tarantella |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● Ticks Are For Kids |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
● Dinosaur Jr. |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport | ||
● Whipper Snapper |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Lounge Lizard |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Clyde the Mega Dude |
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
● Heresy |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
● Osiris |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
● Egyptian |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Krieg's Crack |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Gangsta |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Wheatward Bound |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Yakuza |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Blasphemy |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport |
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
All Photos Within Lilly Bluff
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Lilly Bluff
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (3)
3 Comments