Elevation: 1,251 ft
GPS: 36.102, -84.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 93,745 total · 557/month
Shared By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Kristy Tippey, saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Park in one of the two paved parking lots on either side of the Lilly Bridge. At the west end of the bridge, look for an obvious trail near a bear-proof trash can that heads into the woods. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 218
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 250
Tarantella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 176
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 62
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 88
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 104
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Alien
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 116
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 122
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Poison Ivy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 118
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 199
Heresy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 71
Gangsta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 42
Wheatward Bound
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 36
Yakuza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocking Chair
 218
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tarantella
 250
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ticks Are For Kids
 176
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blade Loafer
 62
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Paraphernalia
 88
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Dinosaur Jr.
 104
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Alien
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whipper Snapper
 116
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lounge Lizard
 122
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Poison Ivy
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude
 118
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heresy
 199
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gangsta
 71
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wheatward Bound
 42
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Yakuza
 36
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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