Elevation: 1,251 ft
GPS: 36.102, -84.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,459 total · 496/month
Shared By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007 with 5 Suggestions
Admins: Kristy Tippey, saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 189
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 219
Tarantella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 148
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 78
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 91
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Alien
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 101
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Poison Ivy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 99
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 177
Heresy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
Gangsta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 32
Wheatward Bound
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 31
Yakuza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocking Chair
 189
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tarantella
 219
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ticks Are For Kids
 148
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blade Loafer
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Paraphernalia
 78
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Dinosaur Jr.
 91
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Alien
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whipper Snapper
 94
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lounge Lizard
 101
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Poison Ivy
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude
 99
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heresy
 177
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gangsta
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wheatward Bound
 32
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Yakuza
 31
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lilly Bluff »

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