Elevation: 1,251 ft
GPS: 36.1022, -84.7184
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 116,088 total · 613/month
Shared By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Park in one of the two paved parking lots on either side of the Lilly Bridge. At the west end of the bridge, look for an obvious trail near a bear-proof trash can that heads into the woods. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 263
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 297
Tarantella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 198
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 73
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 98
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 121
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 49
Alien
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 144
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 150
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Poison Ivy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 235
Heresy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
Gangsta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 50
Wheatward Bound
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 41
Yakuza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocking Chair
 263
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tarantella
 297
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ticks Are For Kids
 198
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blade Loafer
 73
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Paraphernalia
 98
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Dinosaur Jr.
 121
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Alien
 49
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whipper Snapper
 144
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lounge Lizard
 150
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Poison Ivy
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude
 144
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heresy
 235
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gangsta
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wheatward Bound
 50
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Yakuza
 41
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lilly Bluff »

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