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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 1,251 ft
GPS: 36.102, -84.718 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 37,819 total, 308/month
Shared By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tarantella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alien
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Poison Ivy
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heresy
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Egyptian
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gangsta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yakuza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocking Chair 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ticks Are For Kids 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blade Loafer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Dinosaur Jr. 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Alien 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whipper Snapper 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lounge Lizard 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Poison Ivy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heresy 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Egyptian 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gangsta 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yakuza 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.

KV Aug 29, 2015

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