Elevation: 1,251 ft
GPS: 36.102, -84.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,673 total · 361/month
Shared By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007 with updates from wyattj8 and 2 others
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 148
Rocking Chair
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 169
Tarantella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 118
Ticks Are For Kids
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Blade Loafer
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 58
Paraphernalia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 72
Dinosaur Jr.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Alien
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Whipper Snapper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 75
Lounge Lizard
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 72
Clyde the Mega Dude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 140
Heresy
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 20
Egyptian
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Gangsta
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Wheatward Bound
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Yakuza
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocking Chair
 148
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Tarantella
 169
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ticks Are For Kids
 118
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blade Loafer
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Paraphernalia
 58
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Dinosaur Jr.
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Alien
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whipper Snapper
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lounge Lizard
 75
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Clyde the Mega Dude
 72
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heresy
 140
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Egyptian
 20
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gangsta
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wheatward Bound
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Yakuza
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lilly Bluff »

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Photos

Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.

KV Aug 29, 2015