Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 8/8/15
Page Views: 264 total · 6/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A great traditional route that requires much more crack skill than it's neighbor- Rolling Coal.

Scramble up the same dirty slab that accesses Rolling Coal. A few intro moves get you below the flaring hand crack in a 7 foot roof. Jam past good pods until the crack pinches down to fingers at the lip. Long pulls between perfect fingerlocks with tough feet lead to a strange handjam and some much appreciated face holds. A few easier moves gain a large horizontal break. Traverse left to the finish of Rolling Coal.

Watch the rope when you are lowering, it tends to go into the crack which might cause issues lowering.

Would get extra stars if more sustained.

Location

Look for twin cracks about 80 feet left of bolted project on the left end of the Lilly Bluff. Rebel Flag climbs the wide roof crack crack to 20 feet right of Rolling Coal.

Protection

Fingers to #3 Camelot. Bring some runners to avoid rope drag. I left a small nut and carabiner at mid height to help retrieve gear on lower half.

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