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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Craig Stannard, Bob Cormany
Page Views: 4,949 total, 41/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Easy climbing to the first bolt. Continue up the face just to the right of the corner, past 5 more bolts to anchors below the roof. Generally regarded as a safe, easy 5.9.

The many cracks and horizontals in the corner provide an opportunity to lead the route with gear, if you so desire.

Location

A broken, blocky right-facing corner.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
I call this climb "Rocky's Chair" on account of the gentleman waiting in line for my partner and I to finish. One of them, wearing a windbreaker, was doing jumping jacks a couple of feet behind me as I belayed, with a very loud and distracting swooshing of his jacket drawing attention as he switched into running up and down the stone stairs directly behind me while doing undercut air punches with each step. It was all I could do to look around for a hidden camera figuring for sure this cat was just messing with me to get my reaction on film.

Very dirty at the slopey ledgey bottom. Decent but somewhat awkward climbing leads to equally awkward anchors. Not sure I'd recommend it for a first lead, but it's the only sub 10 warm-up for the moderate climber at Lilly. Mar 29, 2017
Matthew Derrell Williams
Holladay, Utah
  5.9-
Matthew Derrell Williams   Holladay, Utah
  5.9-
Great beginner lead. No longer cold shut anchors, updated to new bolts and chains...but still awkward to get to them. Oct 12, 2015
khowe
Knoxville, TN
  5.9
khowe   Knoxville, TN
  5.9
Great, easy, beginner route! Getting to the shuts is a little awkward, but other than that, it's a fabulous route! Jul 27, 2013