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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lisa McKee
Page Views: 6,496 total, 54/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top.

Location

One of the first climbs you encounter when walking in. Starts in a left-facing corner.

Protection

9 bolts, anchors
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
 
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
 
I climbed the start to the 12a with an extended runner on the first bolt, traversed to the second bolt on the 10a, clipped an extended runner to it, and then leaned over to backclean the draw I had stick-clipped. I'd recommend this start because it avoids the chossy, mossy 10a start.

Watch out for the guide book -- its wrong and could sucker you into a real mission! Mar 10, 2016
Definitely watch out for that mixup in that shiny new guidebook, especially since that 12a next door has a high first bolt with a difficult section up to it...trust me I fell off it completely baffled by the difficulty of these "10a" moves. Further inspection of the photographs in the guidebook revealed the problem. Fun route, once you're on it... Mar 13, 2013
Micah McCrotty
Knoxville
 
Micah McCrotty   Knoxville
 
This can be climbed as a gear route. Excellent horizontals throughout with a small runout in the middle, but well protected otherwise. Nov 6, 2016
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
 
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
 
Also, the right bolt at the anchor is loose in its hole. Although recently replaced, the bolt shaft and hanger both move when weighted/ unweighted. Mar 11, 2016
I'm very grateful I checked here before heading to the Obed. I was told this was a must-do 10a and we wouldn't have known the guidebook was wrong without this page. Probably the most fun 10a I've lead with really interesting movement. Nov 11, 2014
khowe
Knoxville, TN
 
khowe   Knoxville, TN
 
Yes, I think there is a mistake in the picture of the Obed guidebook. It seems that route #4 pictured in the guidebook is Tarantella, not Alien. The photos on MP seem to show the correct route line of Tarantella. May 19, 2014
Austin Eddy
Knoxville, TN
  5.10a
Austin Eddy   Knoxville, TN
  5.10a
According to the guidebook, the route that everyone is doing is Alien. Is that a mistake in the book? Is there a route where Tarantella is shown in the guidebook? What is it rated? Feb 23, 2014
Rachael429
Chattanooga, TN
 
Rachael429   Chattanooga, TN
 
This is an awesome lead! Oct 23, 2012
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
Just a heads up, there's a mistake in the guide book where this route and the .12a beside it can easily be confused, although it won't take long to realize you're not on a .10a. Oct 15, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
This is an outstanding lead, one of the highlights of my latest Obed trip. Fairly sustained, but there are good rests along the way. The moves off the first rest ledge skirting the roof felt like the crux of the climb for me.

Stick clipping is not a bad idea, but you'll need a pretty long pole. May 21, 2012