Avg: 2.6 from 24 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||1,331 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||jarthur on Mar 21, 2010|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
DescriptionA really nice route on very good sandstone. A low sloppy crux at the bottom leads to steeper climbing on jugs. The original grade of 11a from both editions of Watford's guide IMHO seems to be way too liberal. I feel a grade of 10b is much more appropriate since the move involves great feet and a long move to a jug off of a pretty good sloper. Maybe if you're shorter this may feel harder, but long moves is the general nature of Southern sandstone.
Whatever you feel the grade is this route is very good and should not be missed while visiting Lilly Bluff.
LocationToward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Start up a ledge where good holds lead to a good sloper slot 15 feet off the ledge. The third line right of Ticks Are For Kids and just left of a bolted crack.
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