Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: James Gose
Page Views: 1,450 total · 14/month
Shared By: jarthur on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

A really nice route on very good sandstone. A low sloppy crux at the bottom leads to steeper climbing on jugs. The original grade of 11a from both editions of Watford's guide IMHO seems to be way too liberal. I feel a grade of 10b is much more appropriate since the move involves great feet and a long move to a jug off of a pretty good sloper. Maybe if you're shorter this may feel harder, but long moves is the general nature of Southern sandstone.

Whatever you feel the grade is this route is very good and should not be missed while visiting Lilly Bluff.

Location

Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Start up a ledge where good holds lead to a good sloper slot 15 feet off the ledge. The third line right of Ticks Are For Kids and just left of a bolted crack.

Protection

7 bolts with closed anchor bolts.

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sanz
Raleigh, NC
  5.10c
sanz   Raleigh, NC
  5.10c
I agree that 11a is probably a bit generous but I think 10b could end up sandbagging people, especially the short. The one-move-wonder crux involves a much worse hold and much more technical movement than anything on Ticks. I think maybe 10c is a good middle ground. Jun 3, 2013
Jeff Edge
5.10c
Jeff Edge  
5.10c
In Kelly Brown's guide this route is switched with Poison Ivy. In his guide Poison Ivy is listed as the route just left of the bolted crack (Krieg Crack 11d). The consensus on here seems to be the opposite. Regardless, this route is the one with the beach ball/ saddle like feature at the start and it seems to be about the same in difficulty as the other 10c routes at the cliff. Although the crux sloper move is harder in the humidity and/or when its covered in spiders. Aug 18, 2013