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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 992 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Scramble to the first bolt at 20 ft. Continue for another 35 ft. of face climbing. Pull the roof and finish at the anchors.

Location

Electric Chair is 10 feet right of Rocking Chair between a corner and a large broken vertical crack system.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jonathan Spencer
Chattanooga, TN
Jonathan Spencer   Chattanooga, TN
It has a bunch of hollow/loose sounding blocks and flakes in the first half, a little run out, but the top is pumps and fun Sep 9, 2017
khowe
Knoxville, TN
  5.11a PG13
khowe   Knoxville, TN
  5.11a PG13
Guidebook has this route at 5.10b/c, but consensus seems to be somewhere in .10d/11a range. This is a stout route with liberally spaced bolts for a sport route. The upper roof section is worth the entire climb though. Donated a locking biner for anchor on 4/9/17, old quick link was rusted out. May 19, 2014