Type: Sport
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 6,843 total · 66/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


140 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof.

Location

The obvious roof with fixed draws. 100ft or so past rocking chair.

Protection

9 bolts, Anchors.
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
Probably my favorite climb in two days at the Obed. The sloper crux down low is a fun little boulder problem and the jug fest roof is just good clean fun. Highly recommend this one. Oct 15, 2012
Travis Griggs
  5.11b
Travis Griggs  
  5.11b
This was the second .11 I ever redpointed, and it remains my favorite sport climb in the universe. The crux comes about half way up the vertical feace, with balancy crossover on funky feet. After that, it's easy climbing to the chimney for a long rest before launching out the roof. The first fixed draw in the roof can be clipped from the chimney, and the second and third clips straddle a mondo no-hands rest.

It's like climbing on a sandstone jungle gym. Highly recommended. Mar 8, 2013
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
 
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
 
Soft relative to the rest of the grading at the Obed IMO. 5.11a vert to a no hands to a 5.11a roof. Great route, 5 stars! Mar 10, 2017
Mick Doodle  
 
Slopey Crux with a finger lock, look to your right for a small foot jib. Take advantage of the sit down rest before the roof. Hidden Jugs at anchors Sep 15, 2018