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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 5,940 total, 66/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof.

Location

The obvious roof with fixed draws. 100ft or so past rocking chair.

Protection

9 bolts, Anchors.

Photos

DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
 
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
 
Soft relative to the rest of the grading at the Obed IMO. 5.11a vert to a no hands to a 5.11a roof. Great route, 5 stars! Mar 10, 2017
Travis Griggs
  5.11b
Travis Griggs  
  5.11b
This was the second .11 I ever redpointed, and it remains my favorite sport climb in the universe. The crux comes about half way up the vertical feace, with balancy crossover on funky feet. After that, it's easy climbing to the chimney for a long rest before launching out the roof. The first fixed draw in the roof can be clipped from the chimney, and the second and third clips straddle a mondo no-hands rest.

It's like climbing on a sandstone jungle gym. Highly recommended. Mar 8, 2013
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
Probably my favorite climb in two days at the Obed. The sloper crux down low is a fun little boulder problem and the jug fest roof is just good clean fun. Highly recommend this one. Oct 15, 2012