Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stan Wallace & Bob Cormany - 1979
Page Views: 1,701 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sam Adams on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

Stick clip for hard moves right off the ground. Step up and lay away a short steep crack to a a very positive shelf. Keep with it until you've pulled over the shelf and made the second clip then jug haul the gently overhanging wall into a crack to finish. This is a fun and pumpy route, but don't underestimate the opening moves.

Location

Far north end of Lilly Bluff above the old walk up from the road.

Protection

Bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

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This route doesn't get as much traffic as the nearby Paraphernalia (5.10b/c), but I always thought Dino Jr was the better route. I highly recommend you stickclip the first bolt. If you blow the cruxy opening moves -- a powerful layback and slap to the shelf -- you'll end up crashing down off-balance onto a large pointy bolder.

The climbing eases substantially higher on the route, but the pump can sneak up on you during the final steep moves to the anchors. Good route. Mar 4, 2013
Kacy Martin
Acworth, GA
5.10c PG13
Kacy Martin   Acworth, GA
5.10c PG13
Really awesome route, seems overlooked! Be sure to stay with it for the final crux especially if you are on the shorter side, there is a crucial small crimp. Apr 2, 2018