Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stan Wallace, 1979 (on gear)
Page Views: 1,865 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on May 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Dixie Cragger's gives this route two stars, but I think the public disagrees. We found it covered with lovely, green algae. I don't think it sees much traffic.

Romp up the steep start with good jams and locks. Locate and admire the ergonomically superior three-finger pocket on the face. Grunt through the slippery, hopeless upper section of crack toward victory.

Location

Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Look for a steep, bolted(!) hand crack that leads up through a slot/dihedral.

Protection

sport: 5 bolts, anchors out right
trad: standard rack, maybe a #4 Camalot C4 for the upper crack section? Be wary of cam placements in the crack, as parts of it are SLIPPERY.

Photos