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Ode to the Quitter
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.4 from 14
votes
Routes in Lilly Bluff
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Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blasphemy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blasphemy Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boogie Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crackin' Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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First Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Giggle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Junior's BBB S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Last Laugh S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Organized Crime S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trickin the Weasel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 36.1022, -84.7184 |
| FA: | Kevin Cox and Sam Krieg |
| Page Views: | 1,253 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Aug 10, 2015 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
The crux on this one might make you a quitter- unless you can haul on really small crimps.
Climb a grungy 5.10 intro up to two fins that stick out of the wall near the first bolt. Then power into an undercling, make a strenuous clip and bear down on two small crimps. If you can hold them, huck for a horn and keep moving to much better holds. Easy but pumpy 5.11- climbing takes you to the top.
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